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This is an Interactive Map. The RED line shows our outward bound portion of our trip. REMEMBER! You can zoom in, move around and click the icons for more information.
  1. RED A
    Our Marina
    Discovery
    See also Discovery Harbour Marina

  2. RED B
    Port Harvey
    Port Harvey
    See also Port Harvey Marina
  3. RED C
    Lagoon Cove

    See also Lagoon Cove Marina
  4. RED D
    Pierres Echo Bay

    See also Pierres Echo Bay
  5. RED E
    Blunden Harbour

    See also Blunden Harbour
  6. RED F
    Miles Inlet

    See also Miles Inlet
  7. RED G
    Fury Cove

    See also Fury Cove
  8. RED H
    Kwakume

    See also Kwakume
  9. RED I
    Kisameet Cove

    See also Kisameet Cove
  10. RED J
    Bella Bella

    See also Bella Bella
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  12. RED K
    Troupe

    See also Troupe
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  14. RED L
    Troupe Passage

    See also Troupe Passage
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  17. RED M
    Wigham Cove

    See also Wigham Cove
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  20. RED N
    Shearwater

    See also Shearwater
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  23. RED O
    Oliver Cove

    See also OliverCove
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  27. RED P
    Clothes Cove

    See also Clothes Cove
  28. Yellow A
    Klemtu

    See also AlexanderCove
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  31. RED Q
    Alexander Cove

    See also Alexander Cove
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  36. RED R
    Alston Cove

    See also Alston Cove
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  39. RED S
    Fifer Cove

    See also Fifer Cove
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  44. RED T
    Emily Carr Cove

    See also Emily Carr Cove
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  48. RED U
    Barnard Harbour

    See also Barnard Harbour
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  50. RED V
    Hartley Bay

    See also Hartley Bay
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  54. RED W
    Kitsaway Bay

    See also Kitsawy Bay
  55. YELLOW X
    Weewanie Bay

    See also Eagle Bay
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  57. RED Y
    Eagle Bay

    See also Eagle Bay
  58. !-- mid way points-->
  59. RED Z
    Kitimat

    See also Kitimat




July 10, 2013 Campbell River

We are now at our boat in the Marina, it is 1500 hrs. We are loading up the BeeJay with our last supplies.

While Larry walked up to the Superstore to get a couple last minutes items, I kept myself busy putting away the freezer and cooler foodstuff. It always amazes me how we can move things around so that they fit! We should have enough food to last us until we reach Kitimat in three weeks.

Larry brought back a lovely barbequed chicken. After our card game of hand and foot we had a visit with a couple of our docks friends, so ended up having a late dinner. We went to bed at 2200 hrs. It was then when a minor disaster struck.....I could not find one of my meds. Would you believe that after hours of planning and packing everything, I had forgotten to pack one bottle of meds....I thought I could do without them but Larry thought he would rather drive back home to get them than put up with me getting nausea and crabby.

July 11, 2013 Campbell River to Port Harvey

We got up at 0400 Hours (yup, as in AM!) and drove back to Cumberland....thank goodness it is only 38 minutes each way. I got the pills. Lucky for me that they were in the medicine cabinet at home and not hidden in one of the compartments on the boat! The sun was on its way out.....streaks of red and orange lit up the Comox Valley as we made our way back to Campbell River; the makings of a glorious day on the water.

0638 Hours........ON OUR WAY TO A NEW ADVENTURE!!

Well, the day has finally arrived. We just departed Campbell River heading for the Northern climes. After the usual hustle and bustle in getting our home ready for our summer guests/home sitters, and getting BeeJay outfitted for the big trip, we are on our way.

It is now 0822 Hours. For the past week Larry has been monitoring the winds coming down Johnstone Strait. All along it did not look good for us to head up through Seymour Narrows because the winds have been howling over 20 knots every day and not letting up at night time. As of last night it was decided that we would get up early and head south and go around Quadra Island and work our way through the Discovery Islands as far as Forward Harbour.

Depending on the tides, currents and weather that trip could have taken us at least two days. Before we did our drive back to Cumberland, Larry checked the weather forecast. He was surprised to see that the winds were under 11 knots at Fanny Island. So here we are heading up the Discovery Passage. We went through Seymour Narrows at the 0740 hrs slack water. If our timing is right we should be able to meet the slack water at Whirlpool Rapids around 1230 hours and make it into Forward Harbour. Larry has been smiling the past hour. He is so happy with his decision. Just after we went through Seymour Narrows we received a cell call from our friends, Val and Terry Smith...remember them from last year? They have been out on their boat, "Margin Call" since mid June. Most of that time has been spent in the Broughton group of Islands. They are now in Port Hardy and waiting for the wind to die down so that they can make the crossing past Cape Caution. Apparently the winds have been brutal up in that area.

Well, it is now 1345 Hours. Would you believe that the Ebb tide has been with us all the way and we have been plugging along at 9+ knots per hour? We have been doing so well with the sea and tides that Larry has decided to continue on to Port Harvey. (Not be confused with Port Hardy at the north tip of Vancouver Island where Val and Terry are waiting out the wind). We should be in Port Harvey around 1500 Hours. Wow, how lucky is that!! We had visions of taking four days to get to Port Harvey. The winds have died down just enough to get us through!!! We are a bit tired tho....since we have been up since 0400 hours. Usually, Larry does not like to put in long days but he wanted to get us out of windy Johnstone Strait.

Yahoo....1500 hours....arrived in Port Harvey...tied to the dock. Good thing we arrived when we did. A couple larger power boats pulled in behind us...guess everyone had the same idea as we did....make a run for it!!!

We will be okay for a couple days before we start to worry about the trip around Cape Caution.



July 12, 2013 Port Harvey to Lagoon Cove
Today was a late departure. We did not have to leave until noon or so to catch slack water in Chatham Channel so it was an easy morning. Here we are enjoying the fresh baked cinnamon buns and fresh coffee from the restaurant at Port Harvey. We then had lots of time to finish our web page for the day before we departed


Going through Chatham Channel at slack current
View of Lagoon Cove taken from the top of my mast


An hour later we were in Chatham Channel with an easy passage during slack water. Another boat reported a bear on the shore on the North side of the channel but we were not able to see him when we went through. Too bad.

It took us about an hour and a half to reach Lagoon Cove and we wanted to fuel up before mooring for the night. Well, wouldn't you know it there was a line up of boats for fuel and we had to wait 3/4 of an hour before our turn came up. Busy little place.

As usual, happy hour and prawn feast was at 5 p.m. and as usual it was great food and good conversation with the other boaters.

One of the exercise stations, chop wood for fire
Happy hour and prawn feed
Library and flag room


Lagoon Cove will not be the same without Bill and Jean Berber. They had owned it for over 21 years and provided all of us boaters with so much character and traditions. Bill passed away a few months ago. Although, she is keeping the marina running in the capable hands of Pat and Bob, Jean has been away this past week getting more boat wear for the gift shop. We were sure sorry we missed her to personally pass along our condolences. She is hoping to sell the marina. We wish her luck. We are all going to miss them both very much....no one could spin a good yarn like Bill....R.I.P. Bill


July 13, 2013 Lagoon Cove to Pierre's

The BeeJay departed Lagoon Cove at 0830 hours. Our destination is Pierre's Marina and Resort in Echo Bay. In the few times we have boated up in this area we had never had the opportunity to moor at Pierre's. Every Saturday night they have a Pig Roast and pot luck dinner so we thought we would give it a try. I made up a bean salad with Basil Vinegrette dressing for the pot luck.

In June 2012 we met Phil and Denise Zloman at the Hunter Rendezvous on Thetis Island. They own a 39 foot Hunter "Groovederci"...it is a real beauty. They have been in contact with us the past few days and are also docked here at Pierre's. In fact they got in ahead of us and managed to reserve a spot for us on the dock. We sure appreciated that because by the looks of things it is going to be very busy tonight. Our little "BeeJay" is sure dwarfed by the huge, and I mean HUGE yachts.


We heard that Captain Charlie (Charlie Long) will be singing tonight after dinner. We are looking forward to meeting him. It is Charlie's song "Cruise Away" that is our theme song on our 2012 trip and his 'The River" is the theme for this 2013 trip. We have both of his cd's "Cruise Away" and "B.O.A.T." (Bring-out -another- thousand"!!!

If you like boating songs, Capt'n Charlie's are among the best. If you would like more information, here is a link to his website. Capt'n Charlie




Today has been sunny and warm all day. Phil and Denise have reserved an outside picnic table for us. They have a couple Westie dogs "Oppie" and "Becket". They do not like to leave them behind on the boat so rather than eat in the overly crowded recreation hall we will all dine outside. It is their dog, "Oppie's" 16th birthday day. Phil has mentioned that they have put in a request for Charlie to sing him Happy Birthday...how cool is that.

At 1700 hours we all met at the upper deck just before dinner was served...and what a lovely feast that was. There were several boaters from the Tacoma Yacht Club in attendance: a great group. Charlie Long entertained us all with several songs with his finale being "Cruise Away". He sure is a well diversified musician. And, he did indeed sing Happy Birthday to Oppie. It was also another young lad's 15th birthday. Pierre and his wife sure put on a great party. But, as we noticed with George and Gail at Port Harvey...they only have a few months to make a living off the boaters and do everything to attract the clientele.

Piper on the docks
These videos have sound, might want to turn off music


What a thrill it was for all of us to hear the bagpipes. Shortly after Charlie bid adieu and we were all headed back to our boats we were serenaded by a piper who played many Scottish laments....it was just a glorious end to a lovely day out in the middle of nowhere...these Broughton Islands....so full of mystery, folk lore and interesting people.

Our host, Pierre....with Betty....Thanks for a great evening.


Tomorrow a new adventure awaits us as we work our way to Blunden Harbour....with a stop at Sullivan Bay to take on fuel. Blunden Harbour will be our jumping off spot for Cape Caution.....the reports have not been the best for the crossing.

Larry tried to reach our friends, Val and Terry Smith on "Margin Call"...they did not reply but one of their friends heard our message, They told us that they heard that "Margin Call" made it past Cape Caution...let's hope we will be lucky.

July 14, 2013 Pierre's to Blunden

We got under way at 0730 hours. Groovederci had already pulled away. They are making their way south while we continue to head north. It is a bit overcast today with calm seas. It should only take us two hours to get to Sullivan Bay.

Happy 16th birthday to my grandson, Jackson Harris....we hope you have a great day....Jackson, you are such a neat person...don't ever change!!!

The seas were calm all the way to Sullivan Bay...our jumping off spot for Blunden Harbour. We had calm seas most of the way but did encounter some choppy seas and light winds as we approached Blunden Harbour. The winds started to really howl once we had set our anchor. Larry sure loves this new anchor of ours....it sets in no time.

It was fairly windy in the bay during the afternoon and BeeJay has a habit of sailing back and forth on the anchor line. Most other boats just stayed in one spot but we moved around quite a bit. The wind died down over night and things were quiet for a nice relaxed sleep.

July 15, 2013 Blunden Harbour to Miles Inlet

Larry checked the weather forecast and decided we could make a run for Skull Cove. As it turned out the seas and wind were not all that bad so we pushed ourselves past Skull Cove but by the time we were approaching the turn off for Miles Inlet the swells started to get higher and higher...,.Okay, says I....enough of this bouncing around....so in we go into Miles Inland and that's how another adventure began.

We could see another sail boat approaching on the port side going Hell bent for leather to beat us into the inlet....Larry radioed over to them that we will give way. No response...so we pulled back anyway and followed down the narrow inlet that was full of kelp beds.

The inlet opened up into a couple small bays with small inlets leading away in several places. The other sailboat seemed to have trouble anchoring so we gave them a good distance until they settled in before we sailed around them to anchor tighter into the bay away from the wind that was working up. We swung around quite a bit so Larry had me clear out the V-berth so he could haul out our spare anchor to set as a stern anchor.

Larry setting stern anchor
small anchorage with other boats


After he was happy with our anchorage, he asked if I wanted to go for a spin on "WeeJay". Off we went on a new adventure.....just up the bay where we were anchored we noticed some ripples in the water and decided to check them out....turned out to be a small group of rocks but a lovely bay in behind so Larry decided to go over them....we got over them with no problem but on the other side we met up with the kelp bed from Hell....with the tide pushing us further into the bay. We tried a couple times to push ourselves back but the motor kept getting tangled up in the kelp and we had to stay clear of the rocks with water rushing in to beat the dickens so after three tries, Larry decided that we will wait it out.....what started out as a 20 minute little tour turned out to be a three hour ordeal but what a wonderful time we had exploring the many bays of Miles Inlet! We cut the motor and paddled with the oars and sat back and enjoyed what was before us....the battle of the eagles and osprey's.....both wondering who was in their territory and protecting their nests. A couple Kingfisher's checked us out while we rowed and rowed around the larger bays. We were hoping for better entertainment...perhaps the odd bear feeding off the one or two creeks nearby but guess it was too early for their meal.

After two hours had gone by Larry decided to give the bad area a go.....so with our motor gunned to max, we fought the whirl pools from Hell and could see our little "BeeJay" so close and yet so far and to no avail....we got hung up in the whirl pools of the incoming flood and just could not fight our way past that last ripple....a matter of a couple yards away!!! Larry managed to turn the "WeeJay" around....not noticing the tears in my eyes. He assured me that we just had to wait another 30 minutes or so and the water will be high enough past the rocks and kelp bed....so back to our exploring of the bays with me having visions of spending the night adrift on our "WeeJay". And of course, both of us are so careful in our planning to the umpff degree that we did not take our marine radio, cell phone, matches and anything else in case of emergency....what were we thinking!!! Totally not like us. That will never happen again....all we had was our life jackets and hoodies for warmth but one thing.....these waters are very well protected .... we just did not have a way out of the labyrinth.

kelp beds stalls outboard motor
osprey nest, chicks are hidden
scenic little island in lagoon


After a further 40 minutes we returned back to the rapids from Hell only to find a few minor whirlpools ... nothing to be concerned with ....and there was our BeeJay waiting to welcome us home.....the first lesson to learn on this trip....Never leave the mother ship without emergency rations and equipment. We left at 1530 hours and arrived back but relieved at 1830 hours.

So we are eating a late dinner of pasta and left over pork from Pierre's Pig Roast. The weather tomorrow promises a good morning with little wind so we are going to depart around 0700 hours and hope to make the run around Cape Caution. Our next post may be from Dawson's Landing in River's Inlet.

July 16, 2013 Miles Inlet Fury Cove

Boy, the water gods have sure been with us. Although, we had foggy weather all the way with a somewhat narrow visibility going through Miles Inlet with its many beds of kelp we managed to reach Fury Cove shortly after 1200 hours. We departed Miles Inlet at 0700 hours. We encountered a lot of swell action with waves about 3m - 4 feet but the winds were low. I am so impressed with Larry and his patience. He stood out on the cockpit with the forward flaps open so he could see some of the action through the light fog which only gave us a bout .25 nautical miles visibility. He sure is happy that we invested in a radar system last year. But, he stood there patiently keeping an eye on our safety as we transferred through one swell after another. Me? I was hidden down below in the salon vigorously working on a crochet project....waiting for the rocking motion to stop.

The rocking motion ceased somewhat once we went past Cape Caution. The fog was still evident but as we started to head towards Fury Cove the sun started to peek through. About 15 minutes out of our destination of Fury Cove we received a marine call from our friends, Val and Terry Smith aboard "Margin Call". They were waiting for us in Fury Cove. They had been there for a few days. Not much to do but wait out the winds.

As soon as we sailed into anchorage at Fury Cove, the sun came out in all of its glory. What a beautiful spot to be in anchorage after a long 5 hours of fighting foggy conditions and swells.

This huge yacht "Owaissa", from Vancouver, is 80-100 feet
More beauties anchored here


We rafted our little BeeJay up to Margin Call and in a matter of minutes the Pegs and Jokers game was under way! Val and Terry were keeping some prawns and fresh crabs on ice to share with us.....so after 5 games of Pegs and Jokers we had a lovely meal of prawns and crabs along with a green tossed salad that we contributed. The score today is: Boys (3) Girls (2)..close, eh? Man, oh man.....those crabs and prawns were to die for.....The sun came up and lit up paradise like no other. There are several boats coming into this safe harbour...some small sailboats and some very large power boats....there sure is some big money out there. There is a huge power anchored a short distance from us......they have at least 4 good sized sport fishing boats alongside....flying a Canadian flag.....hmmmm....wonder who they are!!!!

July 17, 2013 Fury Cove to Kwakume Cove

Passing by Addenbrooke Light House
Here we are passing Addenbrooke light house. We arrived in Kwakume Cove around 1300 hours. We had a nice sunny day with some choppy water. The big thrill of the day was to see two whales. One was floating around the entrance to Fury Cove and the other was further along on our three hour trip to Kwakume Cove. Do you remember Kwakume Cove from last year? it was here that Larry hit an unmarked rock going through the entrance. We were extra careful this time.


Margin Call arrived a few minutes after we did. We circled around the cove while they set the anchor and put out their live crab storage buckets. They still have 4 fresh crabs that they are trying to keep alive. Five more games of pegs and jokers were played with the girls now ahead 6 to the boys 4......there are now two happy chicks on board!!! The four of us got together for a beef taco dinner on board BeeJay. On our way up here we are hearing a rattling sound when the motor is running. It started to bother Larry. He searched everywhere and could not figure out where the noise was coming from. When we got anchored in the bay he decided to put on his bathing suit and go down underneath the boat to see if anything was loose. It appears that one of the zincs we had replaced this past spring at the Ocean Pacific Boatyards is working its way loose. He feels much better knowing what that noise was. It is quite loose and should fall off soon. He tried to remove it but could not work it loose without tools. He feels it will work itself loose and fall off eventually. The water was not overly cold for Larry but he had to wash the salt water off so had a quick warm shower out in the cockpit. Val was handy and helped him scrub his back! What a friend!!

Entering the cold water to check prop
Goggles ON!
fresh water rinse


July 18, 2013 Kwakume Cove to Kisameet Cove

This morning, Val and Terry came over to our boat for fresh baked cinnamon buns. The four of us devoured 12 of them.....only two left for a mid-morning snack. The cinnamon buns have been a tradition of ours for many years when we are either camping or boating.


We departed Kwakume at 0915 hours. The sea was as calm as creamy pudding. Our destination was a short 3.5 hour run to Kisameet Bay; a beautiful scenic bay with easy access. Kisameet Bay is just north of the Native Village of Namu. We spotted several more whales. We would just see the top of their backs while they foraged back and forth gobbling up food. Val mentioned that one of the whales came close to their boat and it was much longer than their 40 foot trawler!

Off in the distance you can see the Alaska Ferry on its way South.


The BC ferry passed us on its way to Prince Rupert from Port Hardy. We heard that BC Ferries will be off loading fresh supplies and merchandise in Bella Bell to help replenish what was lost in the fire there last week end. We heard on the news last Saturday that their general store and liquor store burnt to the ground. A temporary store has been set up in the local church. The two stores were just up from the docks.

After we arrived, it was lunch, naps and again back at the card table by 1400 hours. Oops, the girls are losing ground! By the end of today, the boys caught up to us and we are now tied at 8 - 8!!

Val cooked a lovely dinner aboard Margin Call. She made a delicious seafood pasta with fresh shrimp, crab and scallops; one of her favourite recipes.

We are about 3.5 hours south of Bella Bella. Val and Terry will travel on ahead of us to their favourite fishing hole in the Troupe Island group. We will stop off at Bella Bella to get access to the internet and to get water and fuel before we head up to the Troupe Islands. The fishing, prawning and crabbing seem to be best in this area.

Our plans are to hang around with Val and Terry until at least July 26. Their son, David is flying into Bella Bella on July 25th. He will spend two weeks with them. We will go back to Shearwater with them and stay for two nights to get caught up with the laundry, etc before we travel further North. Shearwater is only 20 minutes from Bella Bella.

The rest of the evening was spent in free time. Larry did some minor repairs and puttered around and Betty tried some fishing off the stern of the boat. Here is a picture of Larry untangling Betty's rats nest of fishing line around the reel.


July 19, Kisameet Cove to Bella Bella

We departed Kissameet Bay at 0930 hours. Today is a bit overcast with some rain clouds hovering above us but no rain as yet. The sea is a bit choppy but not all that bad. The traffic on the water is starting to get busy as we near Bella Bella.

Bella Bella is a large Indian Village. It has a very busy fuel dock with limited dock space. We had to cruise around the bay for a few minutes while we waited for other boats to leave. Finally, a spot came available. We ended up having to wait for over a half hour to get fuel because the fuel jockey was out having his lunch! While Larry hung around the boat waiting to get fuel, he was able to remove our garbage and take on some fresh water. I walked into the village. I took some photos of the fire that partially destroyed the Band Store, liquor store and post office. The buildings did not burn to the ground as we had initially heard but there still is a lot of fire damage. I spoke to a couple people on the shore. Apparently a couple teen aged girls were playing with matches and poof. They were caught on video. They and the entire village were extremely lucky that the fire was put out quickly. Right along side the buildings are four tall fuel storage tanks. It would have been devastating if they were to explode. The long term care patients were evacuated from the small community hospital. Everyone was prepared to escape if the fuel tanks were to explode. The village is surrounded by forest and it would not have taken long for it all to go up in flames.

BeeJay waiting for fuel
View of front of store
View of side of store where fire started


The fire happened in the early hours of Saturday morning.....the supply ship was coming in on Sunday. The local people had to find somewhere to store the new shipment. They immediately turned the local church into a grocery store. I was able to locate the new store (church), it was amazing at how quickly the store was put together. They had cash registers set up, several freezers plugged in and everything was unpacked and neatly set up on shelves. I purchased some fresh mushrooms, celery and green onions. On the way up to the store I stopped and spoke to a lady who was sitting in her truck. She was waiting to pick up a friend off the water taxi. She gave me a lot of information on how the community pulled together. Bella Bella is the supply source for many smaller villages in the area. She said it was a matter of a couple hours that people flooded over to Bella Bella in their small fishing boats to lend a hand with what ever was required. They say that the buildings were insured.

Across the street from the charred buildings the people were putting on a barbeque fund raiser. They had barbequed salmon, potato salad, macaroni salad, Caesar salad and fruit for $10.00 per plate. I purchased a plate each for Larry and myself for lunch. Everything tasted great! They were so grateful that some of the boaters had gone up to participate.

As I walked around the village, I noticed a beautiful new school being built. I was so pleased at the friendliness of the people. I noticed that last year when we were here. Every time someone would either walk by or drive by ....they would either stop and say hello or honk their horn and wave.....even the young people.


Everyone that I spoke to said they were so grateful and thankful for all the support they have received in such a short time. They had nothing but praise and gratitude towards BC Ferries. They said that they stepped to the plate immediately and brought in ship loads of fresh food and supplies . That sure is good to hear. Also, several grocery store chains sent up barge loads of supplies. It makes a difference when your only source of food and drink becomes unavailable at a flick of a match. One lady told me that she is starting to look at things a little differently now that they came so close to what could have been a serious disaster.


All in all we spent 1.5 hours in Bella Bella and are now on our way over to the Troupe Islands and should be there around 1445 hours. We are starting to see some blue sky popping through the cloud.

July 19, 2013 Bella Bella to Troupe Inlet

We will be anchoring in the Troupe Island group for a few days. Terry has an 18 foot fishing boat that he hauls up behind his trawler. Yesterday, he and Val put out the prawn traps. Terry and Larry will go and check them later this morning. We have some high clouds. The past couple days seem to start off with clouds but by the time mid afternoon rolls around....the sky clears up with a nice warm sun. At 1000 hours Val came over to play Hand and Foot while the guys went out to check the prawn traps....they were back within 30 minutes with a good haul of prawns which included several very large ones. Val went back to their boat to clean and store the prawns. The guys loaded up the boat with their fishing lines and went fishing for an hour and came back with a couple red snappers and rock cod...it will be a fish and chip night tomorrow. It is a little cooler today.

Just a sample of the many prawns we were able pick up in this area
These are 2 nice red snappers (yellow eye) we caught


Waiting to be cleaned
The last thing a minnow sees when pounced upon by this monster


July 21, Still in Troupe Inlet

Another day passes and we are still in Troupe Inlet with Val and Terry. Larry and Terry went out fishing today for halibut but with no luck except for a small red snapper, enough for 2 people. The weather is fine with light winds and the forecast looks good except for more clouds and less sun. Not rain though.

More pegs and jokers took place in the afternoon, guys are leading by two games and Betty baked some buns using her friend Cheryl's recipe and they are great!

Tonight we are having fish and chips made with the red snapper that was caught yesterday. Really looking forward to this meal cooked by Terry and using Val's favorite recipe for the batter. We should have some pictures on this.

Today brought another nice catch of prawns
Larry trying out his new fish cleaning board on the small red snapper


Terry's deep fat fryer
Just out of the fryer
Enjoying the meal


July 22, Troupe Inlet to Troupe Passage Anchorage

Today we decided to pack up our traps and work our way toward Bella Bella and Shearwater. Val and Terry will be picking up their son,David, at the Bella Bella airport on the 25th. Betty and I will be catching up on laundry, stocking up on propane and other necessary items prior to heading further North.

Our crab stocks have been reduced to zero so of course that was one thing on our list to do prior to departing. Here we show the new supply just brought in. I think we had 6 or so of nice large blue green Dungeness crabs.

One ugly unhappy fellow
some samples of the catch


Slack water was around 1 p.m. This is a good time to travel through the Troupe Narrows on our Southerly journey. It was only going to be a short trip of an hour and half.

Larry and Betty waving to Val and Terry
cruising into the bay


The anchorage we chose does not have a name so I call it Troup Passage Anchorage. It has lots of room and plenty of good protected spots. We sure have lucked out with the weather. The mornings and early afternoon have been cloudy and misty but no rain. The sun comes out in the early afternoon but with the sun comes the small no-see-ums and horse flies. Luckily we have screens on our hatches but the odd pest does come in.

some scenery in the bay
some scenery in the bay


We spend most of the late afternoon and early evening on "Margin Call's" lido deck. No screens, which means our card playing gets delayed somewhat with the switching of the fly swatter. The Jokers and Pegs score is now girls 14, guys 14. Yes, it's back to a tie. It was our turn to make dinner. Betty made chicken and dumplings....a change from our daily feed of fish and seafood.

July 23, Troupe Passage Anchorage to Wigham Cove

Although this is a nice anchorage, we decided to hop over to Wigham Cove. This anchorage will put us a little closer to Bella Bella where we will be traveling tomorrow. We anchored at Wigham Cove several times last year.

The hour and half trip was very relaxing with a calm sea. We wound our way through narrow passages and some smaller islands. It was a nice sunny day with little or no wind. Terry dropped anchor in his favorite spot. We soon rafted up beside him.

Last year we could not get cell phone service from this anchorage, this year I was going to try out my booster. I turned it on and sure enough I could get 1 to 3 bars on my phone. We had service!

Oops, we did not have service. I was to find that as our boat swung back and forth on the anchor, Terry's boat would get between my antenna and the cell phone site. I would then lose the signal until we swung back. Sort of hit and miss reception. Maybe next year I will install an antenna on the mast for extra height.

We were soon playing pegs and jokers again. Yes, I know you are getting bored, but the score is now: guys 2 games ahead.

I don't know if you remember or not, but we still have that loose zinc on the prop shaft clunking around when the engine is running. I tried to get it off before and could not, so checking the water temperature: 61 degrees and sunny I thought I would dive down and try again.

The water was cold to get in but once my body adjusted, it was no problem. The zinc has 2 Allen screws to hold it on the shaft. These screws had loosened causing the zinc to flop around. When I went down this time, I found one screw had backed off now making the zinc even looser. I tried several times to back off the other screw but the Allen key could not work it properly, I think it was a bit stripped.

The cold water was starting to get to me now, soon I would have to get out of the water. In one last attempt, I was going to try to use a small pry bar I have on board that I use for tightening the fan belt on the motor. On my first attempt I pried it open a bit and on my second attempt it fell away. Yay! It was gone! To have a diver go down would have been at least $200

Tomorrow, its Bella Bella and laundry.

July 24, Wigham Cove to Shearwater

The Marina and Fishing Resort at Shearwater is only 1.5 hours from Wigham Cove. We departed at 1100 hours to allow the departing boats to get away and leave us some dock space. This is a very busy place.

Wouldn't you know it, we arrived to find that the dock man forgot to write down our reservations! He juggled boats around and managed to make room for us anyways. Poor BeeJay was dwarfed by several large power boats....one beside us is 114 feet!

Betty had the laundry all ready to go so I ran up to check how busy it was. For some reason they had the water shut off and it would not be back on for a half hour. The ladies who had washing in the machines sat there watching their timers merrily go around but with no water. After the water came back on they all had to pay the machines again to restart their loads. (they were reimbursed).

Soon the water came back on, Betty eventually got the washing done (five loads!). We now had time for a game of pegs and jokers before taking Val and Terry out to dinner.

We hear that a three day potlatch starts in Bella Bella on the 25th. I think we are going to go over on the water taxi to check this out.

A mural depicting some important people in the local history


The laundry and some other stores



The photo on the right is called the "Warrior's Pole". The inscription on the base reads as follows:

This pole is dedicated to the Pacific Coast Militia Rangers and the First Nation War Veterans who served in the First, Second, and Korean Wars, and on Peacekeeping operations. It was carved by Yagvudlas, Ian 'Nusi Reid in June 2013 and installed by the descendants of those who went to war who reside on the central coast to this day. It stands here to remind the generations to come of the sacrifices of our people who fell protecting our country and our freedom. Their courage and honour will not be forgotten.
Warrior's Pole


BeeJay sitting quietly at her moorage. The "Anchor W" is a meer 114 feet long!
This is Vernon, an artist and the owner of several water taxis.


July 25, Still in Shearwater

It is hard to believe that we have only been on this trip for 14 days. We seem to have done so much.

Today was very interesting and humbling. We are still moored at the Shearwater Resort Marina. At 1530 hours Larry and I took the Shearwater/Bella Bella water taxi over to Bella Bella. We attended the Potlatch that was taking place. It was a good thing that we got there when we did. The Potlatch was being held at the local community centre. We had a bit of an uphill hike to find the community centre. There was just enough time to let us and a couple other people in the door before they locked the doors and the performances started.

We were entertained for 2.5 hours with several local natives ranging in age from young to elderly performing many traditional dances complete with full west coast Aboriginal costumes, a drumming circle and chanters. It was very spiritual throughout the whole performance. Several natives in the audience would stand and dance on the spot during many of the dances.

This time the potlatch was a celebration of and the witnessing of several members of the local band taking on and being accepted for their aboriginal name.

We felt extremely honoured to be there. There were about 15 non-aboriginal people there and about two hundred locals. At 1815 hour they announced that dinner would be served. We wanted to catch the 1900 hour water taxi back to Shearwater so did not stay for the free dinner of prawns, crab, shrimp, bbq salmon, etc. The water taxi only operated on the hour. We did not want to have to wait until 2000 hours to head back to Shearwater. The Potlatch will last for two more days of celebration. Unfortunately we were told to respect the spiritually cultural event and not to take photos.

The back side of the Warrior Totem at the memorial.
This is a huge wind vane in tribute to the Catalina flying boat which went down here during the Second World War while searching for a sub. One person was killed, several badly burned.


The fishing fleet is gathering here waiting for a opening
to take place on Monday
Inuksuk or Inukshuk, (plural inuksuit) statue
with restaurant in background


We ended up having a late dinner at the Fisherman's restaurant in Shearwater. Val, Terry and David were just finishing their dinner. We had a quick visit with them before we ordered a pizza. We chatted with another "power boat" couple from Seattle. People are so friendly up here...I think it is because we spend so much time alone on our boats that it is exciting to just be talking to someone!!

Tomorrow our destination will depend on the weather in the morning. The forecast is for winds in the afternoon until Monday when they are suppose to die down. As long as the winds are light in the morning we can do our travels and hunker down for the afternoon before the winds pick up again.

Once we start our trip around the West Coast of Princess Royal Island we will be out of communications for a while and will only be able to update this website when we reach Hartley Bay where there is cell phone service.

It is now 6 am Friday morning and the winds at Ivory Island, (near where we are headed) are light so it looks like it may be a go. Our final check will be at 7:45 am. If we do not go we will probably head back to Troup Inlet for a day or so with Val and Terry. But, so far, it does look like a go.

Yes, we are on our way

July 26, 2013 Shearwater to Oliver Cove

We departed the Shearwater Marina and Resort shortly after 0800 hours. The resort was starting to get busier and busier. There is a fishery opening coming up this Monday. The fishing vessel dock is chocker block full of commercial fish boats. It appears that some of the late comers will have to pay extra and tie up to the marina docks.

Val and Terry came by to say farewell. They will head over to Troupe for a few days and basically hang around in this area for the next week or so. They will eventually take their son, David, down to Dawson's Landing in Rivers Inlet where he will fly the float plane back to Port Hardy and onward from there to his home in Richmond.

Our first stop was to load up on diesel for BeeJay and gas for WeeJay. The fuel dock now has potable water so we were able to take on water there. I also filled a few empty wine sacks with water just in case we run short in our next leg. We will now have to conserve as much as we can as we do not know when we will next be in an area where we can get water.

++++++ Bella Bella was on our port side as we made the turn into Seaforth Channel on our way to Ivory Island. The people of Bella Bella are so fortunate to have such a picturesque spot to call home. The aboriginal name for Bella Bella is Waglisla. Val tells us that when she worked at Children`s Hospital in Vancouver, the natives that were checking in would refer to the aboriginal name. We noticed at the Potlatch that the locals used Waglisla when referring to their village. Both Larry and I said that we will always remember the Potlatch. We were both pretty moved by the amount of work that went into it and the dedication of the performers putting it on. There were times that I felt a sense of Evangelism throughout the audience as some of them stood and lifted their hands - palms up - out in front of them as they swayed as if in a trance to the sounds of the drums and the voices of the chanters. Periodically some members of the audience would join the costumed performers and dance around the circle with them.

When we left Shearwater, the ocean was basically calm which made for a pleasant ride over to Ivory Island. We deeked in behind Ivory Island. By 1130 hours we were anchored for the day in Oliver Bay. We had to traverse a long narrow channel before the bay opened up with several small bays off-shooting from the big bay. There are several small creeks running into the bay...maybe we will spot some wildlife today.

It is now 1345 hours. We had heated up pizza for lunch. Larry is down having a nap while I write these notes. Good thing we pulled in when we did. The winds have picked up a bit and we have been treated with a little downpour. The first rain we had seen in a few days. We are nice and snug with this protected cove all to ourselves.

We are noticing more and more boats with USA flags on them. The couple we spoke to last night told us that they spend every summer up here. It truly is a wonderful experience. The scenery cannot be compared to anywhere else in the world. The air is clean and unpolluted. In the early evening the only sounds we would hear is the occasional plane fly past; the call of the Eagles as they protect their nests and the water calmly lapping at the side of the boat. With our Sirius Radio playing old Country and Western music....it cannot be any better!!! If only I can catch up to Larry playing hand and foot. Oh, forgot to mention we played Jokers and Pegs with Val and Terry in the late morning yesterday. The ladies managed to tie up the series before Val and Terry had to head for Bella Bella to pick up David. And we are all still friends with nothing gone flying!!!

BeeJay anchored in Oliver Cove
Green sailboat passing us
Ivory Island Light House near Oliver Cove


Beautiful Sunset in Oliver Cove


July 27, 2013 Oliver Cove to Clothes Cove

By 1600 hours yesterday, the clouds gave way to warm sunshine. Two other boats have joined us in this anchorage. We can see that one of them had caught some fish...they were busy cleaning their catch off the back of their boat. We had a late dinner of pork stir fry, watched a video and were in bed by 2130 hours. Our friends, Dennis and Fran Hunt will be pleased to hear that we are now enjoying the series...Downton Abbey. We had borrowed their copy last year but just could not seem to get into it...as the year went by several more of our friends mentioned how much they enjoyed the series. We ended up buying our own set of the first three seasons....guess we should have been a little more patient.

We are starting to notice that the days are longer the further north we go. We did not see any wild life because the incoming high tide came in shortly after we arrived and covered the low lying beaches.

For some reason, I did not have a great sleep. I got up at 0430 and read for a while. Larry got up at 0600 hours. The fog had rolled in. He was in a quandary. Should we go or should we stay? By 0730 hours the fog was starting to lift so we pulled up the anchor and headed out. We went as slow as visibility permitted. We have a good radar system on board...just have to keep an eye out for debris in the water. We traveled from Oliver Cove on Mathieson Channel a short distance before turning into Moss Passage at the south end of Dowager Island. Our first destination today will be the First Nations Village of Klemtu. We are hoping to do some internet work, visit their museum, and top up with fuel and water. Not sure at this time whether we stay the night there or head over to Mary`s Cove. The fog has totally lifted and has left us with a beautiful sunny day with calm seas.

Clothes Cove and Klemtu are off in the distance.
Anchored in Clothes Cove.


Rather than go into Klemtu, we decided to anchor in Clothes Cove which is about 2 miles South of Klemtu in the same channel. We were a bit tired after 4.5 hours fighting fog and debris in the water. Perhaps tomorrow we will pop into Klemtu to water and top up with fuel. This is the last fuel and good water until Hartley Bay several days down the road.

Our next push is to get through Meyers Passage. This is a narrow and shallow pass North of Klemtu that will take us to the West Coast of Princes Royal Island which we want to travel. The high slack water is late in the day and there are large swings from high to low and each day coming the swings get smaller. So we will see.

Clothes Cove is a peaceful anchorage a short distance off the main channel leading to Klemtu. We took the WeeJay for a little spin in the afternoon. Our entertainment was watching several eagles trying to catch fish to take to their babies. Another boat joins us around 1700 hours.

July 28, 2013 Clothes Cove to Alexander Inlet, Alexander Cove

It did not take us long to travel to Klemtu. We docked the BeeJay, took on some fuel and water. We were a bit disappointed that we could not reach anyone on channel 06. We were hoping to get in touch with someone to open the museum for us....oh well, maybe when we head south in a month or so. The Island Joye was docked in front of us. She is a fairly large fishing boat. There is a farm fish processing plant in Klemtu. It would appear that Island Joye was off-loading her hold of farmed salmon. There was a huge suction hose going into her hold and up to the dock above.

Fishing Boat unloading farmed salmon.
Notice how low in the water the boat is.
BC Ferries Terminal and the ferry dock.


From Klemtu we were headed for Meyers Passage. Larry was checking his charts and noticed Alexander Inlet off to the right of the entrance to Meyers Passage. He read up on it and saw that there was a good anchorage at the head. We decided to go have a look. Meyers Passage would be better for us tomorrow. It would be easier to traverse at the high tide slack water.

Several miles North of Klemtu is the light station "Boat Bluff". It was showing up really well in the sunlight. We headed in closer to take a picture. This is another weather supplier for the boaters. Their weather reports are very important. As we were going past the light house keeper came out and waved to us.
A few more minutes and we had made the turn to head up Alexander Inlet. It took us one hour (6 miles) to reach the far end. It was just beautiful. The sea was calm. A few birds flew by. We noticed several jelly fish floating by....red and white ones.

So here we are anchored in another peaceful bay.....all by ourselves. The sun is still hot and warm with the water smooth like glass. Once we got anchored, we had lunch (I made a small loaf of beer bread with herbs and grated cheese this morning while we were underway). We had a short nap and then took WeeJay out for a spin. Not much wildlife here either. Not too many birds. Probably due to the fact that there are no streams in the area. There is a large bay in behind us with a small outcrop of rocks separating us. Maybe the incoming flood will cover these rocks later but after our experience at Miles Inlet earlier on our trip....this gal is not going into any more lagoons!!!!



Well, so much for all by ourselves. Around 5 pm another sailboat cruised in and anchored in the bay. I am trying to think if there was any one night that we were anchored by our selves but cannot. One would think boating in this area would be a lonely affair but there are boats all over the place at this time of year. I am sure in the winter this is not the case.

July 29, 2013 Alexander Cove to Alston Cove

Last night anchorage in Alexander Cove was so peaceful. We keep pinching ourselves that we are so fortunate to be able to experience our home province of British Columbia in this fashion. The weather has been so superb. Aside from the passage around Cape Caution and our experience at Miles Inlet....the rest of the trip so far has been basically hassle free.

It is now 1050 hours. We left Alexander Cove at 0930 hours. Larry took the opportunity of the flat sea with little wind last night to show me how to set the anchor. I had an idea from the sailing course I took in 1994. With this new anchor that we purchased in Nanaimo last spring...anchoring is a snap. We were in 32 feet of water. I set the anchor with 100 feet of chain. Larry has the chain marked off with red paint at every 25 feet. The power windlass makes the job a whole lot easier. This morning he had me do the departure routine. I changed the house battery to starter battery. I Started up the engine...let it run for a few minutes and then tried to bring up the anchor. My hands are so weak that I had a problem pushing the button down that operates the windlass. One nearly has to be a contortionist getting the old body down far enough to get your legs out of the way but near enough to use your left leg to push the anchor chain into place while pulling it smoothly through the windlass.; all this in a very tight working space. After several frustrating grunts, I did manage to haul up 90 feet of chain...Larry did the rest as the anchor was too heavy for me to haul to the stopper.

Chart plotter showing us in Meyers Narrows
It is now 1210 hours. We just passed through the narrowest part of Meyers Passage. The shallow part got down to 14 feet. We took our time because there was a lot of kelp in the area. Larry took a little spin into a small bay just off the narrowest part. It looks like it would be a nice anchorage but not for us today. We are heading to the far end of the passage and will bear north to an anchorage just north of the passage we will come out of. Today is another beautiful sunny day with no sign of any wild life.
Lots of kelp we had to plow through


This is the passage I was a little worried about. The best time to pass through would be at high water slack but these days that time was either too early or late in the day. We delayed our trip by two days so the low water slack would be a 6 foot low rather than a zero low. If you look at the chart plotter photo you can see the depth is as low as 7.9 feet at a zero tide. BeeJay draws 6 feet. I don't feel that would be enough. So, if you add 6 feet to that 7.9 low, it gives us almost 14 feet. Much safer.

By 1420 hours we are anchored at the far end of Alston Cove....off Laredo Inlet. We are basically in the middle of the cove as there are sand heads near the shallow shore. Larry tried to get closer but when our depth alarm started beeping he had to back off....it went shallow fairly quickly.

Looking out of Alston Cove in the evening.


July 30, 2013 Alston Cove to Fifer

Larry is thinking he would like to explore the far end of this inlet before we continue our trek along the west side of Princess Royal Island....no sign of any Kemode Bear....it may be too early in the season. We have enough water and fuel to last us for at least six more days. The next fuel stop will be Hartley Bay at the south end of Douglas Channel. We will be going past where the Queen of the North sank off Gil Island a few years ago.

For the first time since we started on this journey, we were anchored by ourselves. In fact, it may be safe to say we were the only two human heartbeats for miles! A bit unnerving. Especially, when, in the middle of the night we hear this loud bang of something hitting the boat! We both shot up. I peeked through the stateroom window out to the cockpit to see if a wild animal had boarded ... nothing unusual. Larry took the flashlight he keeps on his side of the bed and went out to the salon where he found the source of the noise. It was so hot yesterday he had rigged up our portable fan to one of the small hatches. He had it tied up with fishing line as well as velcro tapes on all sides. Guess it did not like that position and decided to pull away. It hit the computer and navigation table on its way down. Thankfully, there does not appear to be any damages. It took a while for us to get back to sleep!

It is 0800 hours with the day promising another scorcher. With the heat of the sun out come the horse flies and their other bitey friends. We sure are getting a lot of use out of our screen system that Larry built for the hatch way last Spring. In spite of that, my poor old body has several spots where chunks of me are missing. Those horse flies are fiends with fangs!!!

I made oatmeal pancakes for breakfast. We got the recipe a few weeks ago from Larry's cousin Roberta Campbell. Actually we must give credit where credit is due....Roberta's husband, Ed, made them for us when we spent the night with them in early July. I only make a half batch. They are so good and very filling. There are several recipes on Google.

We got underway around 0900 hours. Larry put me through the start up routine. I showed him what I would do to bring in the anchor but he did the rest as my hands get too sore. At least I could do it in an emergency. We have left the protection of Alston Cove and are now back in Laredo Channel. The water is very still.


Larry has the motor idling while he tries his hand at fishing. While I cleaned up yesterday's dishes, he caught three small rock cod...enough for two meals. And while he was proud of his catch, I got into some trouble down below.....ever since our problem with open taps while we were out in the Desolation Sound area in May and lost a bunch of our water, I had been extra cautious....well you guessed it. Some how the bathroom tap was left on and we lost 1/4 tank of our water before I noticed it. I think the first aide kit behind the tap rubs against it and pushes the tap on when the boats moves back and forth. Anyway, I cleared off the counter behind the sink and will be sure to keep an eye on the tap whenever we have the water pressure on. We still have 1/2 tank plus a couple wine sacks full and will rinse our dishes off in sea water so we should be okay for a couple days.

We arrived at Fifer Cove at 1130 Hours. Another beautiful and peaceful setting. We are anchored near a grassy marsh where a little stream runs by. In our "Exploring the North Coast of British Columbia" book...they say this area is a bear habitat. Larry cleaned his fish and rowed over to the grass and left the fish guts, etc on a pile of rocks...hmmm do you think we will have some visitors for a photo shoot!!!


At 1400 hours Larry was checking things out on the cockpit and decided he did not like the way we were anchored. The boat swings a lot on the anchor and sometimes it would swing into a depth of 12 feet. We pulled up the anchor and tried two more times to get to a spot that would ease up his concern. We are still in Fifer Cove but just in deeper water...still have a view of our bear bait......the tide is coming in so looks like the bait will float away or become food for the many eagles flying around.

July 31, 2013 Fifer Inlet to Emily Carr Cove

Last night was another solo anchorage for us. Our daily routine has been, motor for a couple hours, find a safe protected anchorage in early afternoon, have lunch, a nap, play some cards, work on the web page, have dinner and watch a movie ... if the bugs allow we usually spend a few minutes up in the cockpit before we call it a day around 2130 hours.

Larry was up bright and early this morning. He had the anchor up and we were out of Fifer Cove at 0600 hours. We decided not to go further into Laredo Inlet but to head back out into the main channel. With our water situation not at the best level we are cutting the exploring on this side of Princess Royal Island by one day. We departed Fifer Cove in the fog with visibility of 200 feet. The fog did not lift for a couple hours. We had hoped we could see some ancient long houses off the shoreline ........ Larry pulled in close to shore but the mist just prevented us from seeing too much. Also, according to our guide books...across the water on the Western shoreline there is a granite quarry. It was in this quarry that the granite was extracted to build the legislative buildings in Victoria!

Poor BeeJay was boating for almost 4 hours in the fog with limited visibility. We have a good radar system. Just means that the two of us stay up in the cockpit to keep a look out for debris in the water. When we set out at 0600 hours, our destination was to be Evinrude Inlet. We arrived there at 1130 hours. It is a short inlet off the main Laredo Channel. We did not stay there very long, tho. The water-line along the steep rock faced banks was steep. Larry tried a few times to get into safe shallow water depth but not to his satisfaction so off we went further up the channel to another inlet. Just after we left the entrance to Evinrude Channel we passed closely to a power boat on our port side. It was heading south. The skipper radioed us to inform us that there were a bunch of logs floating around not far from where we were heading. It turned out to be some time later that we came across the logs....and it did take some tricky skills on Larry's part to get around them.

Larry putting up our anchor light for the night
Prior to the log debris, Larry noticed a lot of fish jumping and I mean a lot. They were jumping all over the place so slowed the boat down and put out two fishing lines lines and hung around trying our luck at catching a salmon....no bloody luck...those cheeky devils!!!


Our destination today turned out to be Emily Carr Inlet and Cove. Larry could see on the guide book that we had two choices of anchorage. He chose this one.....a bit tricky getting through some narrow areas but we did manage....well not exactly....We went through the narrow spot with only 7 feet below the keel. I was up at the bow guiding Larry through the tough part. There was a lot of kelp....seems to be the case in these situations...

The Bay opened up into a smaller bay. I thought I could relax and go back into the cockpit. Larry says...no....stay where you are....I think there are a couple rocks we need to avoid....I am back at the bow keeping an eye on things when all of a sudden I see what I thought to be a kelp bed...there was a shadow on the water and before I realize it...we were over a rock...I yell at Larry..."BACK OFF, BACK OFF"....my arms are signalling to go back...he does not understand why because the GPS in not showing any danger...well, you guess it...we bumped the rock....actually just touched it slightly ....we were going really slow feeling our way so Larry backed off back into the smaller bay. I could see that the culprit was quite a large outcrop of flat shale with a sandy rise that led up to the rock base where we touched the rock. Larry backed off and made his approach on the starboard side into the safe confines of a beautiful anchorage...so aptly named... Emily Carr Cove....Once we set anchor, the two of us went down below and had a well deserved nap.

After anchoring we went back out on WeeJay to check out the rock. Here is a picture of the rock we hit.
As I mentioned before, the charts in this area can be unreliable and inaccurate. If you look closely at the photo you can see our track traveling from right to left. The green area on the right is suppose to be shallow so I was staying on the left. You can see where I backed off and moved over to the right where it was deeper. The two red circles I later plotted in to show where the rock edges are. Traveling between these circles is the route to go.


What started out to be a short 4 hour day ended up being a long and frustrating 8 hour day. After our nap we took a spin on WeeJay and went back to the problem area to scout out where our exit tomorrow will be. In spite of the problem getting into this cove....this truly is the most beautiful anchorage so far. We are the only boaters in this one as well...we are thinking maybe we are the only gutsy ones to try out these out of the way places...or maybe the more foolish...hmmmmm??

If you are wondering what we use for navigation on the BeeJay, our main source is the Marine Garmin GPS Chart Plotter. It is an excellent unit and easily readable in the bright sunlight. I know, and they tell you every time you start up the unit, that the charts are a guide only because there can be inaccuracies. It's not Garmin's fault because no matter what brand one uses, they all get their charts from the Canadian Hydrographic Department and they will all be the same.

Now you say, what happens if your unit fails? Well, I have several back up sources. I have a program on my computer called "Coastal Explorer" with the charts I need. This program operates with a gps antenna that plugs into the usb port. I also have a small hand held Garmin Etrex GPS with the charts.

Last but not least I have a program on my I-Phone that is amazingly accurate with the charts I need. It will operate just fine without cell phone service. I have been checking it with my main GPS and it is right on even though we are miles from any cell phone station. The application can be down loaded for FREE from Garmin but if you want charts you must buy them. I did, and for $40 I have the charts from Alaska to Mexico on the Pacific Coast including some inland lakes. You can also upload information from the Website "activecaptain.com" for free. It will show little icons on the screen that you click and read all about other boaters favourite anchorages.

August 1, 2013 Emily Carr Cove to Barnard Harbour

We departed the serenity of Emily Carr Cove at 0930 hours. Larry wanted to wait for high tide before we attempt to go past the killer rocks. The passage is fairly narrow....with rocks on both sides but keeping a short distance from the rocks on our port side, we managed to stay away from the problem rock(s). The narrows were a bit higher also with a depth of no less than 12 feet compared to 7 feet yesterday. In no time we were out in the open channel. There was some fog coverage but visibility was okay. We are crossing the North West Corner of Princess Royal Island. There is open water on our port side which made for some rocky seas with the odd swell. And the fish are jumping all around us! It was too rough to put the lines out. Larry spotted a whale just before we turned into Barnard Inlet. We anchored in Cameron Bay at 1215 hours. Man oh man, fish are jumping every where in this bay. We had lunch, a nap and then took WeeJay out in the calmer waters of the bay to try our luck in catching something...nada.



Betty trying her luck at fishing again. nada
There is another sailboat in this bay. We met them at Klemtu when we fueled up. A young couple from Vancouver on the Nordri. They mentioned that when they were exiting Meyers Passage last Sunday, they spotted a pod of Orca whales. They cut their engines and watched a fantastic performance of the whales breaching,etc. That lasted for 15 minutes...wow, wish we could have seen that. They said to monitor channel 14 to get reports on where the whales are being tracked.


Once the fog lifted around 1100 hours we are treated to another glorious, warm and sunny day. We are so blessed. Hopefully it will last a few more days because they say that the next channel we head up is one of the most scenic .... Douglas Channel. We are now in the waters that the tanker traffic will be using if the Enridge pipeline goes through to Kitimat. Tonight will be our last anchorage on Princess Royal Island until we start our trip home from Kitimat.

August 2-3, 2013, Barnard Harbour to Hartley Bay

It was early to bed last night. We had an early dinner followed by our video watching....Downton Abbey.....our friends are right...it is an interesting series. And, of course, Larry wants to stretch it out and will only let us watch one episode at a time. Each episode seems to end with a cliff hanger!!! Oh well, it gives us something to look forward to each evening.

Our sleep was interrupted by the sound of an anchor chain going into the water. It was 0100 hours. The sound seemed to be close to our boat. Larry got up to see what was going on. A large fishing boat had pulled into the bay not far from us. The stillness of the night made the sound travel across the water. We were both surprised that they would be setting anchor this late at night. It,and along with the sail boat,had departed the bay before 0600 hours. We departed at 0730 hours. Our destination today will be Hartley Bay, the south western end of Douglas Channel.

Yahoo, we will get water on board so we both can have a shower!!! It will only take us 3.5 hours to reach Hartley Bay. We are travelling in the morning fog with adequate visibility. Speaking of showers; I purchased a spray can of dry shampoo; the first time I have ever tried it. A little spray on the hair in the morning takes some of the greasiness out.

Queen of the North's resting place
We passed over the spot where The Queen of the North sunk off Gil Island. Although it was several hundred feet below our keel, I had a very eerie feeling going over it. It was the First Nations people of Hartley Bay who were the first responders when the ferry sunk a few years ago. Two passengers were unaccounted for.


Just before we entered the narrow passage that leads into Hartley Bay, Larry handed over the helm to me while he went below to check the local WiFi. He got three bars and was able to make a couple phone calls and upload the web page.

I spotted a couple water spouts 200 yards off our bow. Whales! I was always too late with the camera. They moved further north. Off in the distance they jumped out of the water a couple times ... you will have to take my word for it....they really must have a good feed in these waters...fish jump all over the place.

View of Hartley Bay
The fuel dock and marina in picturesque Hartley Bay are located behind the protection of a long breakwater. There are three small fingers with enough room for a few private boats and fishing boats. We managed to get a spot...free moorage and free power! After our lunch and nap we went for a long and needed walk....our first touch of land in 8 days!!


The whole village of Hartley Bay is made up of wooden boardwalks for streets. The main mode of transportation seems to consist of Artic Cat quads, electric golf carts and small electric cars. While we walked through the village, the local kids were having a ball driving their quads on the wooden sidewalks throughout the village. This is a dry village....signs are every where....get caught with booze...you get the boot plus a drain on the pocket book.....this rule applies to everyone.....even the transient boaters. Klemtu was also a dry village.

Larry looking at the Bay
View of Hartley Bay board walk
View of Hartley Bay rush hour traffic


By late afternoon, the marina starts to fill up. Several rather large yachts are taking up a lot of space while the others are forced to raft. It seems to be common practice that when you dock, you put out your off side fenders to offer docking space for others.

Hartley Bay Church
Sign expressing Hartley Bay's view on tankers


With cell service being the best it has been for seven days, we took advantage and made a few calls. One was to secure our car rental in Kitimat when we arrive there next Tuesday, and others to touch basis with friends and family on the mainland. Our message to all....this truly is British Columbia. The big cities of Vancouver, Victoria, Kamloops, etc seem so miniscule when one experiences the vastness of the wilderness outside their doors. Although, the negative being would say...nothing but rocks and trees and more rocks and trees...the positive being would respond with...but how wonderful they all are with new adventures in each turn! One would have to spend many years to visit every nook and cranny along these shores; So much left to discover.

Totems in front of administrative center
Large fiber glass canoe. Native drove by saying he carved it.


We are enjoying this spot so much that we decided to spend an extra day here. It has given us the opportunity to get caught up with email's, banking etc with the fast wifi service.

The day started out as what has been the norm....cloudy with foggy patches in the morning with the warm sun coming out shortly after noon. We basically hung around the boat...I did some much needed cleaning inside while Larry puttered around doing odd little things. We played some cards in the early afternoon before we went for a long walk ... the board walk is so unique in this village. Everyone we talk to is so genuinely friendly. As we approached the bay yesterday, the houses looked very nice....not so as we had a closer look. A lot of them were in need of repair. A lot of dry rot. The board walk, as you would notice in the photos is above the undergrowth of weeds. I do not know why they do not have any vegetable gardens?

I made a prawn pasta for dinner...thanks to Val and Terry for supplying the prawns. We were just about to sit down to our dinner when a Chris Craft power boat was jockeying to get in behind us. They were having a bit of a problem so Larry went out to give them a hand....turns out they are from Alberta and moor their boat in Kitimat at the same marina where we are headed on Tuesday...well, one thing leads to another .... they offered us their slip to use while we are there....how good is that!!! That savings will pay for my haircut while we are in Terrace!!!

Yesterday, the Coastal Guardian boats were docked here. These boats are similar to the Green Angels in Baja Mexico. They travel around from bay to bay, inlet to inlet, anchorage to anchorage to make sure everyone is safe. Most of the employees are local natives. Some of these waters can be pretty isolated. It is good to know that these fast power boats are in the area. This afternoon we heard a helicopter flying very close to the marina. Larry grabbed the camera as he rushed up to the cockpit to see what was going on. It was a BC Air Ambulance landing beside the marina on one of the few flat spots around here. A small ambulance was waiting there with a patient to get evacuated to the hospital in Prince Rupert. Even a remote location as this has good medical service.

Emergency response vehicle waiting beside helicopter.
Off goes the air ambulance to Prince Rupert
August 4, 2013, Hartley Bay to Kitsaway Bay

We are nearing our further most destination via the BeeJay, Kitimat. Kitimat is approximately 45 NM from Hartley Bay. We will be winding our way through and around many passages and islands.

One of our stops was going to be Bishops Bay where there is a nice hot springs located. However, we were talking to another boater on the docks and he said he was going to go there also but this being a long weekend the place will likely be a gong show so he was going to pass and go there after the weekend. The hot springs are only an hour or so away for powerboats out of Kitimat and well used on weekends. I think we will pass on this portion of the trip. We will be going right by it on our way home and will stop in there at that time.

Just as we left Hartley Bay there was a native in a small aluminum boat a couple hundred feet outside the breakwater. We waved to him and he waved back and then pulled a small halibut out of the water he had tied to his boat to show us. He was fishing right there in about 100 feet of water just outside the harbour. What a place!

The day started out with a layer of fog 100 feet above the water giving us good visibility, the winds were calm. I had the radar turned on in case we had to enter any fog banks as we traveled. As it turned out we did not which is great.

As we traveled up various passages to our next destination, (Kitsaway Bay), we were to pass 2 reported good halibut fishing areas. I was looking forward to trying them out. These areas are a high spot, usually around a hundred feet or so surrounded by much deeper water. Halibut are suppose to like sitting atop these spots waiting for food to swim by and pounce on them. Some of these locations are not very large and drop off quite quickly on the sides. As it turned out, by the time we got to them the wind had come up and along with some current it was just too much to stay in one spot to get the hook down to the bottom. I tried a couple of times but we kept being blown off into deeper water. Maybe tomorrow.

Kitsaway Bay is a nice anchorage with room for quite a few boats if necessary. The scenery is trees surrounding us with grassy shore line and a shallow flat at the head of the bay. Four other boats shared this anchorage with us overnight.

View toward entrance of bay. (left side)
View to the head of the bay and drying flats


A sunny warm afternoon was spent relaxing, reading and working on the web page. I was sitting in the cockpit reading and swatting horse flies, Betty was puttering down below away from the flies. On our whole trip this summer, I don't think there was one night we did not encounter these darn horse flies. They are a bit of a nuisance buzzing around you looking for some bare skin for a meal but are not as fast as a regular fly and it can be a bit of a sport to see how many one can swat. Here you can see my trophies gathered in about an hour.


After a nice dinner of corned beef hash and hash brown potatoes with FRESH baking powder biscuits we watched our last episode of Downton Abbey. It was a bit of a surprise ending. Now we will be starting a new series "Wire in the Blood" A loaner from our neighbours, Dick and Margaret in Cumberland. Apparently one of the actors is a relative of theirs.

August 5, 2013, Kitsaway Bay to Eagle Bay

Our departure out of Kitsaway Inlet was at 0900 hours. It will be a slow paced day today. We are only 4.5 hours or so from Kitimat but do not want to be there until after 1100 hours tomorrow. Larry is going to try his hand at halibut fishing and just generally poke around. Lord only knows what we will do if we do catch a big halibut. But I will be so excited for him. It truly is one of the best tasting fish.

What a surprise adventure we had today. We were a bit disappointed that we never went into the Bishop Bay Hot Springs but when Larry was reading our guide book he came across another set of Hot Springs not far off our path to Kitimat. We pulled into Wewanie Hot Springs. There were two safe mooring buoys out in the bay. We tied up to one of them and then rowed WeeJay further into the bay. We tied her to some driftwood and then with towels, bathing suits, soap and shampoo we hiked across the slippery rocks along the beach, climbed over some huge driftwood logs, up a well worn forest pathway, over more rocks, along several man made bridges, some with ropes to pull us along, and climbed a man made set of steps.

Betty walking on level portion of trail
View of Larry and the beautiful rain forest trail


If you are wondering why I am smiling, the guy standing there taking the photo is also in the nude.
After about 10 minutes we came across a small bath house. Inside it had two pools of hot water... One larger one flows into a smaller one. The smaller one was big enough for two people to stretch out in. We had our bath and shampooed our hair. We drained that pool and rinsed it out for the next users before we hopped up and into the larger pool where we sat and relaxed in the warm soothing water...not overly hot but just refreshing enough. Being the only ones there, we had discarded the idea of changing into our bathing suits and went in ala buff. (The bath house has windows overlooking the bay so we could hear and see if any boats were coming in) Boy, oh, boy did that warm mineral water ever feel great. The bathhouse is maintained by a volunteer group from the Kitimat area. They do a great job. Some of which is obviously unappreciated by the amount of debris left behind by other boaters. We packed out as much as we could hold in our beach bag.


Once we returned back to BeeJay the tide had come up a bit so we did not have far to go across the slippery rocks on the beach. I made a bacon and cheese omelette for lunch while Larry headed BeeJay over to a different anchorage. There is no room near the hot springs to really anchor overnight. The guide book said that fishing boats like to tie up to the buoys at night and if some one is already there they ask to raft up to you....so we thought it would make it easier if we just headed out to a bay closer to Kitimat.


We are now anchored in Eagle Bay. There is one other small power boat here. A small sail boat came in with four adults and three kids...they had a ball swimming in the not too cold water. They did a little fishing and then up and left. We were wondering how their tiny sail boat would sleep them all but now we think they headed back to Kitimat for home. Kitimat is about 10 miles from here...two hours travel by boat.

As we are getting closer to Kitimat the mountains are getting a bit steeper with snow caps still evident even at this time of year.


I made baking powder biscuits yesterday. I tried a new recipe and they turned out very nice.

BAKING POWDER BISCUITS

Two cups All Purpose flour
2 1/2 tsp Baking Powder
3/4 tsp Salt
5 T. Shortening
3/4 cup Milk


DIRECTIONS:
Pre-heat oven to 450 degrees. In a large bowl, mix together flour, baking powder and salt. Add the shortening. Blend until in little pieces of dough. Slowly add the milk until a soft ball can be formed. The only milk we had on hand was tetra pack milk......and they still turned out good.

Roll out on a floured board to ¼ to ½ inch thick. Cut into desired size Dip each biscuit in melted shortening before placing on an un-greased baking sheet Bake for 12-15 minutes


I dont know why but by dipping them in melted shortening keep them firm on the outside and soft inside...yummmy
Note: With our small oven, I checked at the 10 minute mark and turned the biscuits over which baked both sides evenly.
We ate 5 at dinner and had the rest warmed up and served with honey for breakfast the next day.

Betty whipped up a delicious and filling "Bisquick" pizza. Fully loaded with sliced roasted turkey breast, red onion, black olives, loads of garlic, artichoke hearts and cheese....yummy!!!


This photo of the sunset over Eagle Bay does not do it justice. The sea is calm, the eagles and loons are calling their mates.


August 6, 2013, Eagle Bay to Kitimat

We are now in our most Northern moorage....Kitimat ...at the north east corner of Douglas Channel. We had a relaxing boat trip over from Eagle Bay. It is in Kitimat that the controversy is over whether or not the oil company, Enbridge, will be allowed to ship Alberta oil via a pipeline to Kitimat and from there, via tankers to the Pacific Rim countries. After traversing these beautiful pristine waters, we shutter to think what if the unthinkable were to happen.

We took our time going the couple of hours to arrive at the MK Bay Marina near the First Nations Village of Kitimat Village...the actual town of Kitimat is 15 minutes via car from here.

BeeJay snuggled in at the marina.
View of the Kitimat Marina (MK Bay Marina)


We loaded up with fuel before we continued on to our slip...and no, they did not give us a discount....seems to be the mode de operandi among the various marinas..someone leaves their annually paid slip...the marina takes over and sub leases it out...but it was a good try on our part.

One thing that we noticed as we travel further north is the lackadaisical way of doing business. We tried several times to secure a rental car in Kitimat. It took several tries to pin a commitment down with one of the companies and then we are not sure that someone will pick us up at the marina tomorrow at 0900 hours. Even getting a spot here at the marina....was a bit iffy....guess we have become too "metropolitan" with our demands and requirements......the attitude seems to be .... well if something comes up....we will see if we can fit you in.....so tomorrow will bring another story.....

Betty doing laundry at the marina
Industrial area of the Kitimat water front.


In the meantime, we managed to load up on fuel and water, dump the garbage, do two loads of laundry, change the oil on BeeJay, tightened the fan belt, change the transmission oil and pack our bags for our three day trip into Terrace and the Nass Valley.

Betty is really looking forward to this portion of our trip. She and her first husband lived in the Nass Valley for 2.5 years and subsequently in Terrace for 1.5 years while he completed his heavy duty mechanics apprenticeship course. Their daughter, Shelly, was born in Terrace in 1968. Betty has not been back in the area since 1973. She still has a few friends in the area that she has been in contact with and hope to shore up some visits with them on Friday. Another area of profound beauty complete with glaciers and lava beds.

Well, we have reached our destination via boat of this portion of our summer trip. This web page "Sailing North of Klemtu" is getting rather large and clumsy to load and work on. For the next portion of the trip returning home to Campbell River will be on a new page called "Kitimat Home Bound". The interactive map will have a green route marking our travels rather than red.