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This is an Interactive Map. The GREEN line shows our homeward bound portion of our trip. REMEMBER! You can zoom in, move around and click the icons for more information.
  1. Red A
    Kitimat Marina (MK Bay Marina)
    See also Kitimat BC

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  4. RED B

    See also Kitisaway Inlet
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  8. RED C
    Bishop Bay Hot Springs

    See also Bishop Bay Hot Springs
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  11. BLUE D

    See also Butedale
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  13. RED E
    Khutze Inlet

    See also Khutze Inlet
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  18. RED F
    Bottle Neck Inlet

    See also Bottle Neck Inlet
  19. RED G

    See also Klemtu
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  23. RED H
    Oliver Cove

    See also Oliver Cove
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  26. RED I
    Wigham Cove

    See also Wigham Cove
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  29. RED J

    See also Shearwater
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  33. RED K
    Fury Cove

    See also Fury Cove
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  37. RED L
    Blunden Harbour

    See also Blunden Harbour
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  40. BLUE M
    Sullivan Bay

    See also Greenway Sound
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  42. RED N
    Greenway Sound

    See also Greenway Sound
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  45. RED O
    Waddington Bay

    See also Waddington Bay
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  48. RED P
    Lagoon Cove

    See also Lagoon Cove
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  52. RED Q
    Port Harvey

    See also Port Harvey
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  55. RED Q
    Forward Harbour

    See also Forward Harbour
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  59. RED R
    Discovery Harbour

    See also Discovery Harbour


August 10, 2013 Kitimat to Kitsaway Bay

Today is Saturday, August 10.. our departure day from Kitimat. We arrived back at the boat yesterday late afternoon after our visit to Terrace and the Nass Valley where Betty used to live 40 years ago. Because there will be so many photos and so much Betty wants to talk about...we will create a separate page for that experience.....We have to leave early today and will not have time to work on it....look for it in a couple days. The scenery up there is breath taking. Our photos do not do it justice. It also rained most of the way.

While we were in Terrace we stayed at Ken and Holly Hoskin's home for two nights. Ken and Holly are friends that we met at the Araby Acres RV Park in Yuma, a couple years ago. We and they spend the winters there. Thank you Ken and Holly for your kindness and generosity!

Friday afternoon Betty and I had lunch with Ron and Belva Snider and Tom Shiechuk. Betty has known these friends for over 40 years, ever since they lived together in the Nass Camp logging camp. Needless to say, there was a lot of conversation of "Remember the time when....".... hashing over the old times and all the things that took place from then to was neat to watch and listen....they all had some good chuckles. They all reconnected like it was just yesterday.

Betty is off doing a last load of laundry while I am getting this last bit of the web page ready to upload before we leave. She is a little blue this morning. She got a Skype call at 0600 hours. It was a dear friend of hers calling from England to inform her that her friend's husband had passed away. Another couple that Betty has known for over 30 years.

Sorry we could not include more on this portion but it takes time to get everything organized and we would like to leave before the afternoon winds get up. We think we can get as far as Kitsaway Inlet...around 1330 hours. Not sure when we will get cell service again....

I will say though, that Kitimat appears to be booming. There is construction everywhere. The Rio Tinto smelter is getting a major upgrade, work is going ahead on the LNG plants, a 1200 men living quarters is been upgraded. This will increase to accommodate 2000 men. The Kemano Hydro station is been upgraded and expanded to produce more electricity and the list goes on and on. Rents in town have tripled in the last year, if you can find a place. Small two-bedroom apartments rent out for $1100 to $1500 per month. A couple years ago they sat empty. Everybody here is excited and looking forward to prosperity.

We were planning to go to Eagle Bay, not too far away, about 1.5 hours but the weather was so nice, winds were light and the sun shone hot that we decided to travel to Kitsaway Bay which was a further 2 hours away. It is a good anchorage with lots of room and full of horse flies. This is the bay I got all those trophies on the way up.

The bay was empty when we arrived, the horse flies met us coming in. It was so hot. In the afternoon playing cards the inside temperature rose to 29 C, in the cockpit the temperature said 40 C. (probably in the sun). We had our portable fantastic fan running and were sitting with our shirts off sweating. I'm sure this is going to change as we work our way South away from the mainland. The night was quiet and peaceful.

August 11, 2013 Kitsaway Bay to Bishop Bay Hot Springs

We were the only boaters in Kitsaway Bay. We pulled anchor and departed at 0915 hours. Another beautiful sunny day, the only rain we have had so far was the day we drove up to the Nass Valley. We encountered some light fog on our way to Bishop Bay. I had the radar on to guide us.

By the time we arrived in Bishop Bay, the sky was back to a brilliant blue. There was a small dock with room for a couple mid sized boats as well as two floats.

There was one other small power boat tied to the dock when we arrived. We docked across from them. Turns out the couple, Vic and Sharon Bradley are from Smithers, BC and know our friends, Ken and Holly Hoskins in Terrace. Small world, eh? We have another friend named Sharon Bradley, she lives in Australia!
BeeJay sitting quietly at her moorage at the hot spring dock
Main soaking bath
Another view of main tub showing boater's memorabilia

It is here in Bishop Bay that we had hoped to visit on our way to Kitimat but changed our minds because it was on a long weekend and it would have been too crowded. The hot springs are the attraction here. A fair sized hut has been built with two good sized pools inside and a small bathing pool on the outside as well as a nice patio along the front and down one side.

We each had a soak in the outside bathing pool first. it was so tiny that Larry could just squeeze his body in....we cleaned our bodies and shampooed our hair before we jumped into the indoor pools. Too many people around so had to keep the bathing suits on! The water was not too hot but was warm enough to relax and enjoy.

Larry in the bathing tub
Larry in the Main soaking bath
Betty washing her hair in the bathing tub

More boats arrived late in the afternoon. The dock was getting full. One boat was loaded with fresh fish. We sat up in our cockpit and watched them clean some of them. They sure looked good. We have not really pushed catching fish because we really do not have the storage space. We re-stocked the coolers when we were in Kitimat so now we will have to wait until we use up some of the food to make room for fish.

One more power boat arrived and asked if they could raft up to us. We said they could. They were a native family of 8 from Kitimat. Basil Grant, his wife and some relatives. After they got rafted to us, one of the older boys brought over two live crabs to give to good is that!!!!

Everybody visiting on the dock
Kids in for a swim. brrrr.

August 12, 2013 Bishop Bay Hot Springs day two

Regardless of the lack of sleep last night, we decided to spend another day in Bishop Bay. Betty made a batch of overnight cinnamon buns. We baked them first thing this morning and took some over to the family next door. They were thrilled. As each person climbed across our boat to head for the hot springs, they would stick their heads in our hatchway to thank us for the buns.

It is foggy this morning which seems to be the norm. Our fellow rafters left around 0900 hours. We cleaned up the galley and did some work on the web page. The day has turned out to be a cloudy overcast day. Usually when the fog burns off we got nice blue sky. Not this day. In fact we have had a couple sprinkles of rain.

Vic and Sharon left on their boat, Nantucket. They decided to head over to Hartley Bay. A 38 foot Chris Craft boat that had been tied to a buoy out in the bay came in and took over Nantucket's spot. I had a nice long chat with them. They are from Grande Prairie, Alberta and moor their boat in Lund, BC.

Betty and I had an early lunch and went up for a sit in the Hot Springs. Our batteries were getting low so we decided after our dip we would pull up and head BeeJay over to the buoys so we could run our generator without disturbing anyone. And that is when our dinner plans got ruined.......

Last night Basil's son had given us two good sized crabs. I had them in a special bucket with holes on the sides and a lid on the top. I had tied a good and strong rope to the bucket and lowered the bucket over board so that the crabs would stay fresh until our dinner this evening....well, you guessed it...I think when the boat was rocking and rolling during the night the rope worked itself loose. When I pulled the rope up before we headed over to the mooring bucket, no crabs, nada except a dangling end of rope!

Betty and I were sure looking forward to a nice crab dinner and I am choked that I lost my good bucket! Now it looks like we will have left over chicken dumplings and salad for dinner.

August 13, 2013 Bishop Bay Hot Springs to Khutze Inlet

Last night Betty started a batch of bread. It is suppose to rise for 12 hours overnight. We just took it out of the oven. It is the first time she had tried this recipe. You are suppose to bake it in a cast iron pot, we only had an enamel pot but it seemed to do the trick just the same. It turned out nice and crusty and would be good for you boaters out there.

Crusty Bread

3 cups unbleached all purpose flour
1 3/4 teaspoons salt
1/2 teaspoon Instant or Rapid-rise yeast
1 1/2 cups water

In a large mixing bowl, whisk together flour, salt and yeast. Add water and mix until a shaggy mixture forms. Cover bowl with plastic wrap and set aside for 12 - 18 hours. (Overnight works great)

Heat oven to 450 degrees. When the oven has reached 450 degrees place a cast iron pot with a lid in the oven and heat the pot for 30 minutes. Meanwhile, pour dough onto a heavily floured surface and shape into a ball. Cover with plastic wrap and let set while the pot is heating.

Remove hot pot from the oven and drop in the dough. Cover and return to oven for 30 minutes. After 30 minutes remove the lid and bake an additional 15 minutes. Remove bread from oven and place on a cooling rack to cool. Enjoy!!

The weather today is a bit cloudy and drizzly. We departed Bishop Bay at 0800 hours. We are glad that we decided to move over to the buoys. The float got very busy in the late afternoon. There were 5 boats tied up with another 5 either anchored or tied to the other buoy.

Our destination today was planned to be Butedale. Butedale is in a bay just inside Fraser Reach on the east side of Princess Royal Island. When BeeJay arrived in Butedale, we were greeted with a horribly abandoned fish processing plant. It was just too depressing. Although there was a small power boat tied up to it, the dock was in terrible shape. I listened to the weather forecast. The winds were going to come from the Southeast around midnight. They would have pushed us around quite a bit on an unsafe dock. We made the decision to travel two hours further to Khutze Inlet. The waters were smooth like pudding all the way.

Just before we made the turn into Khutze Inlet, the BC Ferry "Northern Expedition", was bearing down on us. The captain was very considerate of us. He slowed down so we would not have to put up with much of their wake when they passed us. A couple years ago, Betty's son, Rick was the captain on this ferry. He is now working on the Tsawwassen/Swartz Bay route.

When we choose to go this inside route between Princess Royal Island and the mainland coast, Betty was a bit uneasy because the passage is narrow in spots ..... there was loads of room for the ferry to pass us. We have yet to see a cruise ship on this journey.

We anchored in Khutze Inlet. The anchorage was a bit tricky. There was a shallow shelf almost in the centre of the inlet. Room enough for one boat. I had to go in a couple circles to get the correct setting at 60 ft.....a few yards either way took us into 100 feet. And fish were jumping all over the place. After we had lunch and a nap I took WeeJay out for a short fishing trip. I was looking for a small cod or two to use for bait for my halibut line there fore was using my light spinning rod and reel with a buzz bomb as a lure. Soon I caught a cod so now I had bait but thought I should get another one. Right off the bat I had another one on line, felt like a good sized one. As I started to haul it up, maybe ten feet or so it decided it did not like that idea and headed for the bottom. That was when I knew it was a halibut as I could not stop it going down and before I could loosen the tension it broke my line. Damn!, it was gone.

Before supper, Betty and I did some fishing off BeeJay. Betty caught two small greenling. We released them or was it the same one stupid enough to be caught twice!! I put my halibut line out with the bait but nothing!

Betty made pizza for supper tonight. Somehow she managed to put together the correct blend of ingredients for a delicious crust. We had purchased some pepperoni in Terrace so along with artichoke hearts, re-constituted dried mushrooms, red peppers, celery , onions and cheese. loads of garlic and the right blend of spices in the was one of the best pizzas I ever tasted!!! A lot of work though....not to mention the dishes!!!

August 14, 2013 Khutze Inlet to Bottle Neck Inlet

This morning for breakfast we made toast using the crusty bread that Betty made did not turn out all that bad. It was extra good when we added the home made strawberry jam that her friend, Belva gave us when we were in Terrace...thanks again, Belva! We had already used up the delicious blackberry jelly that our friend, Fran Hunt from Qualicum BC had given us so Belva's treat fit right in.

We had a good sleep last night and are now underway at 0815 hours. There is an area just off our route called Fiord Land which I have heard is very beautiful with high mountains, a very scenic area at the top end of Mathieson Channel. The weather is sounding iffy with rain in the forecast so we decided that it may be a waste of our time if we could not see anything but mist and fog. So now its off for Bottleneck Inlet which will put us just a bit north of Klemtu on Finlayson Channel, an hour North of Mary Cove where the Smiths on Margin Call and us stayed one night last year. Mary Cove was the farthest North we traveled last year.

Beautiful falls we passed in Finlayson Channel
This strange boat passed us. It had a sign on the front saying (Un-Cruises).
The registry was US. This was the first cruise ship we encountered since we left Campbell River. It must be some sort of small cruise line competing with the big fellas.

Bottle Neck Inlet is a cozy narrow inlet with a very narrow and shallow entrance. It is an excellent safe anchorage with lots of room for several boats. Winds cannot get in here and the bottom is not too deep with excellent holding for the anchor.

As we were having lunch a boat came in passing us and anchored just ahead. They were the same boat that passed us yesterday as we were anchored in Khutze Inlet also anchoring ahead of us there. They must be following us! Tonight's dinner is going to be shepherd's pie with hamburger, gravy, veggies and mashed potatoes. Betty always makes extra for either lunch and dinner the next day.

With our card game done for the day, supper and dishes are over with, we watched a video...the first season of Homeland... and now we are bedding down with the sound of rain on the upper decks....the first rain we have experienced on the water. The only other rain was up in the Nass Valley last week. We cannot complain as the weather has been unbelievable.

August 15, 2013 Bottle Neck Inlet to Klemtu

Yesterday morning, we woke up to rain pelting down on the upper deck. It did not show any signs of letting up any time soon so we decided that we would stay put and work on the web page. Bottleneck Inlet gave us great protection if the winds should come up. We noticed quite a few logs in the inlet that had been washed in overnight. They managed to stay out of our way.

Around 1030 hours the rain had let up with some blue sky poking through the clouds. Changing our minds about staying longer in Bottleneck Inlet we pulled up the anchor and headed to Klemtu which was only 1.5 hours south of Bottleneck Inlet. Betty had a shower and did her hair while we were underway. She had herself all prettied up for Klemtu....we both had a chuckle because as we were going into dock at Klemtu the rains came down in a torrential shower while Betty was putting down the fenders and getting the docking lines ready....good bye hairdo!

The dock that we tied up to is just south of the fuel dock. We got there at 1230 hours...a good time because any time later we would probably not been able to get a berth without rafting on to a fish boat. There were also a couple buoys close to that dock that we could have used in a pinch but the dock was our first choice.

Shortly after we docked, we headed up to the band store and small cafe. We picked up a few things at the store and had Chinese food for lunch at the was okay. We could get onto Wifi in the cafe which allowed us to upload the web page. Once that was done it was back to the boat to have our nap. The rain had let up a bit. The locals were telling us that they are pleased to get the rain because the lake up in the mountain was getting low. That is where they get their water from. Also some of the creeks were drying up which made it difficult for the salmon to return to their birth place to spawn. And if they do not make it to the spawning ground, the fishery in four years is compramised.

August 16, 2013 Klemtu to Oliver Cove

We really did not get a good night's sleep last night. We were awakened several times with some of the fishing boats coming in late at night. They made such a racket as they were getting hauled out of the water and then we were awakened early as some of them left in the wee hours to go fishing. But guess, we cannot complain being that moorage and power were free!

Yesterday while shopping at the store, I asked the check out clerk about tours of the long house and museum. She said to call George Robinson on channel 6. He will tell you what time to meet him at the long house. The long house is located on a spit across a small bay from where we were docked...about a 15 minute walk on a nice path around the bay. We managed to contact George Robinson and set up a time to meet at 0930 hours today(Friday) for our own private guided tour.

George could see us walking towards the Long House from his home and met up with us along the road.

When we mentioned that we were heading back to Bella Bella, he asked us to say hi to his friend, Vernon. Vernon operates the Shearwater/Bella Bella taxi service. We have met Vernon several times. George and Vernon grew up together in Namu.

The Long House or Big House, as most of the locals refer to it as, is a beautiful structure. The totem at the front entrance is called a welcoming totem. The art work on the front of the building was created by a couple with the last names of Hunt and Henderson out of Campbell River. George did not give us their first names. We will look them up in Campbell River when we return to our home port. Apparently they have done a few art and carving pieces in Campbell River. They certainly have done some beautiful work in Klemtu. They also created the four beautiful totems at both ends inside the long house.

It is in the Long House that Pot-latches and other traditional ceremonies are held.

Front view of long house
Betty and George standing by the "Welcome Totem"
George explaining about the totem

Inside the front entrance
Close up of the support totem
Showing the size of the long house with bleachers on sides and ceremonial fire pit in centre

At the far end of the auditorium is a long cedar log. The log is actually used by the 10 to 12 local drummers. George is also very proud of the fact that he is a member of the drummer group. He allowed Betty to try it out. I was amazed at the different sounds this one log could produce. To create a deeper sound, the underbelly of the log was hallowed out.

The front of the inside showing more support totems
At the front where the elders or honoured persons sit with the drummers and chanters sitting behind them.
The large drum log (hollowed). When beat, different areas give different tones.

A small museum was located in a small room at the back of the long house. The access to the museum is through an outside door. This museum had several pieces of native art, old photos of Klemtu as well as many pieces of ceremonial costumes including head dresses, etc. George demonstrated one of the masks for us. This mask was given to his brother from Hunt and Henderson, the artists who had created the mask. We hope we can make contact with them when we get home to find out from them where they have other art work on display.. We have not seen such beautiful works of Aboriginal art.

Inside the museum
George demonstrating the sea monster mask
Tables of various items

These three oil paintings of earlier chiefs
are on display in the museum at the Long House
in the First Nations Village of Klemtu

Photo of the old village of Klemtu
Photo of an old "Welcome Totem"
Photo of the old Long House

I asked if there had been any Kermode bear (the white spirit bear) sightings locally. George said not recently but if we wanted to see Kermode bears we needed to go back to Khutze inlet. There is a river straight across the channel where some Kermode bears hang out. There is a tour out of Klemtu but it is an all day adventure on a fast power boat. We had to by-pass that idea. The sad part is, we had anchored in Khutze Inlet two nights ago and would have been across the channel from the river..... so close and yet so far. George told us that most tourists get a chance to see them there but one had to be patient and wait quietly for hours to get a sighting. He said that they are a mild mannered bear. One had wandered into Klemtu a couple years ago and hung around for a couple weeks not bothering anyone.

Ravens discussing our tour of the long house.
On our walk back to BeeJay we spotted a pair of black ravens who posed for a photo. A little further down the road we see a very large bald head eagle perched on a fitting for this spiritual community."
Immature bald eagle sunning on top of a pole"

There is a lodge not far from the village...Spirit Bear Lodge. They receive visitors from around the world...all keen on not only the fishing in this area but also to get a sighting of the spirit bear which is only indigenous to Princess Royal Island.

Speaking of fishing, in most of the bays we have anchored in, we have seen so many fish jump but none compare to the frequency and the size of the fish jumping in the waters in front of Klemtu. The dock always has someone out there with a fishing rod. Many villages that we have visited have nicknames attached to them. Canyon City is "the land of the lizard". I told George that Klemtu should be called, "the place of the jumping fish"!

Betty and I are so pleased we had the opportunity to visit the Long House. We had been to Klemtu twice before and were not able to contact anyone to take us on the tour. This will be one of the highlights on this trip. We both agreed that the people of Klemtu are very friendly and out going. As we experienced in Bella Bella, everyone we passed would greet us with a nice cheery hello.

There is some employment here. Just above the fuel dock there is a farmed salmon processing plant. The fish farms bring their product here. It is processed here and then shipped mainly to the USA. The operation employs 30 people. There is also the Spirit Lodge, Health Centre, school, two stores, administration building and BC ferries that provide more employment.

BC Ferries comes to Klemtu twice a week and has a nice new terminal further north out of the village. The terminal building has a tall colourful welcome totem in front. At the top of the totem is a carving of a man holding out his hand to welcome the visitors. George tells us that the totem man was his father who always welcomed people to his community.

The BeeJay and crew departed Klemtu at 1100 hours. We stopped at the fuel dock to get fuel and water before heading out for Oliver Cove. The day started out with some blue sky but by the time we got under way the clouds came in. We experienced some drizzly rain but it had stopped as we arrived at Oliver Cove and left us with cloud coverage and a chill in the air. There are three other boats joining us here in the cove. One small sail boat has a huge banner on one reads in large bold print ....NO PLACE FOR TANKERS....

I am sure glad that we brought along our kerosene lantern. I usually put it on in the mornings to take the chill great. Today we put it on when we anchored. We have it hanging over the dinette table. It gives off enough heat to make things nice and cozy.

Tomorrow we will head back to Wigham Bay which will be a short day. We will just be killing time because we do not need to be in Shearwater until Sunday afternoon. Betty needs to get some blood work done at the hospital in Bella Bella on Monday. We will moor at the dock in Shearwater and take Vernon's water taxi over to Bella Bella early on Monday.

August 17, 2013 Oliver Cove to Wigham Cove

Our departure from Oliver Cove was 0900 hours. We were the last boat to leave the cove. We took a short cut through narrow Reid passage and around Ivory Island. We crossed the choppy waters of Seaforth Channel and arrived at Wigham Bay at 1145 hours. It has been a damp and drizzly day so far. It is now 1500 hours. So far we are the only ones anchored in this well protected bay.

I can manage to pick up some cell phone service from Bella Bella using my booster but it very unstable. One minute I can get 3 bars, then the boat swings and I lose the signal completely. My transmitting antenna is in the V berth and I think this is part of the reason. If I were to have a mast mounted marine antenna this problem with fringe reception would be alleviated. Next year, maybe .

Betty found some flour in the closet when we thought we were out so she is going to try her crusty bread again. This time we are going to do it a little differently to see if it will still be okay. She will be letting the bread rise in the cooking pot rather than a bowl. Maybe saving one step and less disturbance to the dough. She also substituted one cup of whole wheat flour for one cup of A/P flour. Also, she is going to let it rise longer and use a little more yeast hoping for a larger less dense loaf....,.it will be baked around 0800 hours tomorrow....will keep you posted!!!

This picture shows the dough sitting in the cooking pot right after mixing.

August 18, 2013 Wigham Cove to Shearwater

Well the bread did not rise like we had hoped it would. I guess because we used some whole wheat flour. It turned out like a round foccacia loaf. It had good density and flavour but not too tall! It will do for sandwiches at lunch time. We will keep working on this recipe because it really can be easy to make on the boat, etc.

The Shearwater Resort and Marina are only 1.5 hours away. We were underway at 0930 hours and will take our time getting there to give the boats departing the marina today a chance to leave and make room for us. We are seeing some blue sky peeking through the clouds. Let's hope the weather changes for the good. Last night we had torrential rain most of the night. The porthole in the stateroom leaks. We have a wash pan catching the drips. We dumped about a litre of water out of the pan this morning. I have tried several times to fix the leak. When we get home I will call Specialty yachts to see about replacing the gasket. We have two portholes that are identical in size and construction. They both leak so it must be the way they are made.

August 19, 2013 Shearwater: Day two

Today is day two in Shearwater. The forecast is still for Southerly winds 15-25 with rain, still not looking good for our Cape Caution run. It is raining out. Heavy showers come and go with some gusty winds mixed in with it.

It literally poured all of last night. Neither Betty nor I had much sleep. Several fishing boats came into the marina throughout the night. Their wake would crash against our stern along with the lapping water from the wind...not a great night.

At nine this morning Betty and I grabbed the water taxi over to Bella Bella for Betty's regular blood test. Big Vernon was our driver. We first met Vernon last year. He still runs the water taxi during the day. We passed along the "Hi" from his friend, George,in Klemtu. We wore rain gear and took along an umbrella for rain, also took along our portable radio. Our taxi arrives in Bella Bella at 0925 hours. We must get back by 1000 hours because if we miss it, the next water taxi does not depart for Shearwater until 1200 hours. Vernon told us he would wait a few extra minutes if we were held up at the lab. We told him we would call him on the marine radio if we were going to be delayed. It turned out, we got through everything and back to the water taxi with 10 minutes to spare. Great!

We had a little excitement this morning after we got back from Bella Bella. I was over at the boat yard getting our empty propane bottle refilled when there was a loud bang. The attendant and I ran out of the store to see what happened. A large 65 foot commercial fishing boat was up on blocks in the ways in the boat yard. It got knocked over on its side. It appears that a dump truck ran into it. Fortunately no one was hurt and that no one was under the boat. I think the truck's breaks let loose or failed. The front of the bow was heavily damaged. The stern crashed right to the ground with a large gaping hole poked through by the rear support jacks. This fishing boat will not be going fishing any time soon.

Nothing much to do except play cards, work on the web page, have a nap, bake some muffins, and listen to the rain showers pound on the upper deck. We may go out to dinner tonight or what ever. If the weather is still crappy we may have to stay here another day or two.

August 20, 2013 Shearwater: Day three

The rain kept up until late this afternoon. Consequently we stayed put tied to the dock in Shearwater. Last night we spent a couple hours up in the pub visiting with other boaters who were also showing signs of cabin fever.

This is Gwen and Richard traveling in a 40 ft. power boat. They were docked behind us and are from Washingtion State. They are also on their way back home.

Gwen and Richard traveled as far North as Glacier Bay in Alaska. They have been out all summer.

We did enjoy a lovely Halibut Vera Cruz dinner at the pub. It really was tasty served on a huge platter. Betty could not finish hers and had plans on taking her leftovers back to the boat but no way, I was enjoying it so much I finished off both platters!!! Each platter came with two huge pieces of halibut. In fact, we have enjoyed most of the meals we have had here in Shearwater at the Fishermen's bar and grill. Great service.

Today was spent doing small chores in the boat. We have a few leaky windows and with the condensation we had to keep wiping down walls and around the windows. The rain let up a couple hours ago. Hopefully we will get under way tomorrow morning. We only have 3 hours to travel tomorrow. The plan is to be in Fury Cove by Friday. That will be our jumping off spot for going around Cape Caution. There are several other boats waiting along with us for a break in the weather.

Betty has another loaf of crusty bread rising. We will bake it early tomorrow morning and then refill our spare propane tank before we head out. Once we leave here our wifi will not be available to us until we reach Blunden Harbour in 4 - 6 days.

August 21, 2013, Shearwater to Fury Cove

The bread is in the oven...really rose good overnight! It did not rain overnight...thank goodness! There is some blue sky out there with some mixed cloud coverage. We plan to pull away shortly after 0800 hours, top up with fuel and water and be off.

Checked the weather forecasts and they are improving, Light House winds are good and the local winds not too bad. The sea swells are also dropping. They were up to 7-8 feet and now down to 3 feet which is okay for us to make the attempt to leave.

The fuel dock at Shearwater is across the bay from the marina. I was getting BeeJay ready to take on more fuel while Betty was putting fresh water in the water tank. A young lady was rowing an inflatable dinghy out to us. Turns out it was our friend, Amber...remember Amber from Hornby Island? We met up with her on our return trip from the Hunter Rendezvous in June 2012. Anyway, she has been in Shearwater this past year. She saw BeeJay tied up to the dock yesterday. We were up at the pub playing cards when she knocked on BeeJay's hull. Of course, we did not answer. She rushed down to have a visit with us this morning only to find that we had left the dock. It was then that she saw BeeJay over at the fuel dock. There was a BC Forest Service power boat loading up with fuel in front of us so I suppose she knew we would be a while getting fuel. I do not know whose inflatable she grabbed but there she was rowing out to have a quick visit with us. She told Betty that she works part time at the store and that she will be heading back to Brentwood Bay on Vancouver Island for the fall and winter. She now has a boyfriend who is taking a geology course in Vancouver...we wish her all the luck.

Wow, we cannot believe that BeeJay got us as far as Fury Cove from Shearwater in one day! We departed Shearwater at 0900 hours just after we topped up with fuel and water. A lot of boats left just before us. The water was calm most of the way with no wind or chop. We arrived offshore of Kisameet Bay at 1200 hours. Larry mentioned that Kwakume Inlet was just a couple hours away. The conditions were favourable so we continued on. It was 1500 hours when we went past Kwakume Inlet when Larry said he felt good enough to go as far as Fury Cove. The water was still fairly calm with lots of blue sky..

We arrived at Fury Cove at 1730 hours. We recognize several power boats that had left Shearwater ahead of us this morning. The weather fore cast for tomorrow is good for going around Cape Caution but the day after tomorrow the winds are suppose to pick up. That is one of the reasons we pushed getting as far as Fury Cove. The winds and rain had been so awful the past few days. This is the first window we have had to get around Cape Caution in several days so have to get when the getting gets good.

Surprisingly, after 8.5 hours behind the helm, I am not all that tired. I spotted two whales just before we turned into Fury Cove. The cheeky devils blew a couple spouts and dove down and up a few times before disappearing behind us. We just were not quick enough with the camera. BeeJay always seem to be in the wrong place at the wrong time as far as the whales are concerned. So many other boaters that we have had conversations with have mentioned the shows that some of the whales have put on for them...jumping straight out of the water and all....we just have to be happy to just even see them skimming across the water.

Betty made chicken burritos for supper tonight with homemade, what a pile of dishes that created! It will give her something to do tomorrow!

It is to bed early this evening....we want to leave at the crack of light. I am sure all the boaters here will have the same idea.

August 22, 2013, Fury Cove to Blunden Harbour

The morning sky to the East after we departed Fury cove
BeeJay said good bye to Fury Cove at 0600 hours, daylight is at 0610 hours but we can see fine to start out. The winds are down to 5 knots from the East. The water is a bit choppy with a 1 foot swell; the ideal situation for going around Cape Caution. Four other boats had left before us. It looks like a convoy.

It is now 1026 hours. We have Cape Caution behind us....whew!!! There are blue skies above us as we go across a calm sea. This crossing today is a lot more comfortable compared to our crossing when we headed north in July. It makes for a less stressful day.

Here is the BC ferry Northbound with a boat in our convoy
I think every time we have crossed Cape Caution either Northbound or Southbound we seem to meet the BC ferry out of Port Hardy on its way to Prince Rupert. Their morning departure seems to match our crossing times around the cape.
Here is the BC ferry Northbound with another boat in our convoy

Did I mention `less stressful` a moment ago. I guess I spoke too soon....with blue sky and a bright sun shimmering across the water, I did not see a small piece of caught us by surprise. It did a tumble under the boat and made a heck of a racket. I was quick to put the gear in neutral before any damage was done to the prop. A second hit on our little BeeJay this season. This happened at 1145 hours just as we were passing Miles Inlet. There a several other boats in the area so if anything would have happened we would have help close at hand. It did not appear to cause any damage.

We are two hours away from Blunden Harbour. Blunden Harbour will be our jumping off spot to our familiar territory; the Broughton Islands.

Safely at anchorage
Wahoo!!! We pulled into Blunden Harbour at 1400 hours...a long day but now we can rest for a few days before we head for our home port. When the opportunity to travel is open it is best to grab it because you don`t know what will happen tomorrow when the weather is a bit unsettled.

Larry is having a nap. It has been two long days behind the helm but he is happy that we did it. Putting in the extra long days shaved two or more days off our travels home. We plan to leave here early tomorrow and try to make it as far as either Kwaski Marina or Lagoon Cove. The weather will determine the end result.

August 23, 2013, Blunden Harbour to Greenway Sound

Last evening in Blunden Harbour it was quiet and peaceful. We were so happy to have gotten to Blunden Harbour from Shearwater in Two days. The crossing past Cape Caution was terrific! Betty always panics as we make our approach. She has heard so much about the high 6 foot swells but so far we have not had to endure anywhere near that. It was smooth waters most of the way. There were 4 other boats anchored down with us in the protection of the harbour.

View of some of the buildings from the fuel dock
We departed at 0900 hours this morning. We had low clouds and foggy patches most of the way to Sullivan Bay. Coming inland from Queen Charlotte Sound we only had about 300 feet of visibility in the fog. I was watching other boats ahead of us fishing (they did not move much) and another coming up from behind. He came right up to me until he could see me and then moved over to the left and passed after he had me visual. RADAR is great. We only stayed at Sullivan Bay long enough to get fuel and two Drumstick ice cream cones. Betty gobbled hers up right away.....I am saving mine for after supper.

We are now docked at the old dilapidated docks of the once beautiful Green Bay Marina Resort at the top North East corner of Broughton Island off Sutlej Channel. The marina is now abandoned. The docks are no hell but they do manage to keep us steady. There are 3 other sail boats tied alongside so I guess if one breaks away...we all go! It is a shame that this was left this way. The previous owners are from the States and we guess they could not make a go. Apparently the BC Government has taken it over due to unpaid taxes and lease payments. It is so tough to make a living in these places. The season is so short and if the weather is crappy or the fishing season unsuccessful, the businesses loose money. We have seen so many people struggling here in the Broughtons.

The skies opened up just as we finished tying BeeJay to the dock. It poured for 30 minutes or so around 1430 hours. It is now 1720 with a blue sky and warm sun.

The last couple days we have been playing the card/board game "Sequence". Betty is ahead by 6 games. I am thinking we should go back to playing Hand and Foot where I am ahead!!!

The plan tomorrow is to do a short trip over to Bonwick Island and anchor in Waddington Bay. It is only a couple hours from here. We are keeping an eye on what is happening in Johnstone Strait. The weather forecast will decide which route we take to get back to our home port. BeeJay is like a horse returning to the barn....once the barn is in sight, it is a race to get there.

August 24, 2013, Greenway Sound to Waddington Bay

It will be a three hour cruise today. We decided to go along with the plan to head for Waddington Bay rather than a six hour trip to Lagoon Cove. Waddington Bay is an anchorage with many tiny atolls off the mouth of the bay. It was in this area that we caught a lot of crab in 2011. It is also the true Broughton Archipelago and the scenery is just great. We left Greenway at 1000 hours. There is some blue sky with mixed clouds even though the forecast was for "cloudy with 70% chance of showers". It is a very comfortable day for cruising these calm protected waters. hmmmm, something smells good. Betty must be baking bran muffins. I just checked the weather at Cape Caution...not good for crossing...too much wind. I sure am glad we got around there when we did.

Here we are tucked in all by ourselves.
Around 1300 we arrived and anchored in the small protective bay with room for several boats.
Just as we were pulling into the bay, a nice power boat was leaving and as he passed us on the way out, he yelled over, "its all yours now", sure enough we were the only ones here... Great, lots of room to pick any spot, maybe we will be on our own tonight.
An hour later, we have a new neighbour

As we travel, I have been checking the tides and currents for our eventual passage down Johnstone Strait. The tides and currents are not in our favour. Our normal procedure is to leave in the morning and anchor shortly after noon before any winds can build up. However, the tides are wrong for this period of time. You see, they are falling in the morning and at our locations this means a current against us that we will have to fight. It will not change to our favour for another week or so, so we just have to bite the bullet and calculate things to our best advantage.

Lets see. Tomorrow night will be Lagoon Cove. If we depart Lagoon Cove around 7 am we can hit the slack water at Chatham Channel an hour later (perfect), then by pass Port Harvey and head straight for Forward Harbour. This will be a long 5 hour or more trip but we will only have to fight the Johnson Strait current for 2 hours (I hope).

Then the next day, if we leave at 0700 (just after light) we can surf through Whirlpool Rapids with the current pushing us (just outside Forward Harbour) and head back into Johnston Strait early enough to catch a bit of favourable current. It will of course, change to be against us but at least we will make some time. Our destination that day will be Granite Bay on the North side of Quadra Island (North of Seymour Narrows, North of our Marina). We cannot continue because those horrific rapids at Seymour Narrows do not match our schedule.

The next day is the critical day, if we leave the morning slack we fight the current after we pass Seymour Narrows, if we catch the afternoon slack we arrive at our marina at 7 pm in the evening. I will think upon this as we travel.

You can see that timing is critical and planning ahead is very important in these waters. This is what makes cruising in our country so interesting!

As I am sitting in Waddington Bay working on this page for our website, Betty is making pizza for supper and doing up the dishes with hot water from our engine heater during today's travels. Isn't she the greatest! Even after losing a game of hand and foot and 2 games to 1 in Sequence. She is my sweetie pie!

August 25, 2013, Waddington Bay to Lagoon Cove

0900 hours was our departure time from the protection of Waddington Bay. We only had three hours to our destination of Lagoon Cove but the winds in Knight Inlet came up and we had the tide against us delaying us by an hour. Once we snuggled into Lagoon Cove at 1200 hours, the winds were light because the marina is protected. We are a bit nervous about what tomorrow will bring.

There were only four other boats tied to the docks when we arrived but more came in just in time for the All You Can Eat Prawn Happy Hour. Jean Barber, the owner, was telling us that someone has been available to haul up the prawns every day except two times this year. A couple times they had hauled up more than 600 prawns. That makes for a good feast. The Happy Hour is an everyday event that has been a tradition of Lagoon Cove for over 20 years. Jean's husband, Bill, had passed away earlier this year but she was determined to keep the marina open and keep up with the traditions. She has lots of volunteers.

Betty baked two dozen dinner buns for the Happy Hour. They were a big hit. We cheated and used frozen dinner roll dough that we had purchased in Terrace.

Couple from Florida, Robin and ?
We always enjoy meeting new people here. One couple was from Florida. They put their 65 foot power boat on a freighter and had it shipped to Victoria and will be spending 5 years exploring both BC and Washington State coastlines. It sure is a beautiful boat.
Their boat is the large black one

Another young couple were on a 34 foot Bayliner. He works in the oil field in Asian country at the North East side of the Caspian Sea. He and Betty had a lot to talk about because she had lived in Iran in what was once called Bandhar-E-Pahlavi which is located on the south west side of the Caspian Sea. Pahlavi was the surname of Shah Reza who was kicked out of Iran in 1979. The new government of the time changed all city names and locations in Iran that bore any semblance to the disposed shah and his family. Thus Bandhar-E-Pahlavi became Bandhar-E-Anzali.....anyway back to our boating world.

August 26, 2013, Lagoon Cove to Port Harvey

With the weather fore cast changing daily, we were uncertain last night if we would have to spend another day at Lagoon Cove. They are calling for strong winds in Johnstone Strait. I was up at 0530 Hours this morning, checked the early weather report and decided to head out. We had some cloud when we departed Lagoon Cove at 0615 hours. There was no problem going through Chattam Channel. The current pushed us most of the way.

The forecast winds for Johnstone Strait were 15 - 20 knots. I thought we could handle that. BUT, as we approached our turn off into the Strait at 0800 hours, we could see a sail boat up ahead of us. I radioed to them and they told us the head winds from the south were 20 knots. I thought we could at least make it to Port Neville but Betty said why push it, let's turn left and head into Port Harvey.

So here we are tied to the marina at Port Harvey. It is now 1245 hours and the winds are howling even in this bay. There are a few boats here that were in Lagoon Cove last night. The forecast for tomorrow is slightly better so hopefully if we got away at early light we could make it as far as Forward Harbour which is about 5 hours from here (about 22 nautical miles).

Remember when we first started out on this adventure? It only took us one long day to go from Campbell River to Port Harvey. Not this time. Looks like we will be taking a bit longer to go the other way. Winds, tides and currents are all against us.

We are pleased that we made the decision to tie up to the dock at Port Harvey Marina when we did. Shortly after our mid morning arrival, the winds came up. Poor BeeJay got bounced around so much that she broke away from her bow line! Our neighbours in front of us saw our boat swinging out from the dock. They quickly jumped off their boat and re-tied the bow lines. We were up at the marina restaurant placing our dinner order and making some cell calls. There was no damage done to BeeJay. The stern swung against the dock a few times. Our Dinghy sticks out a bit so it took the brunt of the blows. We are just thankful someone was there to help out.

By mid afternoon the dock was nearly full of boats. Most of us were waiting for the winds to die down in Johnstone Strait. We did have some sunshine when the winds were blowing in the early afternoon then around 1730 hours the winds died down, the clouds came in and the rain came down. It poured off and on for an hour or so. We had gone up to the upstairs restaurant at 1530 hours and played cards for a couple hours before our meal was served at 1800 hours. Betty had the cod and fries. I had an order of ribs. We shared the fish and ribs between us. They were both tasty meals.

The owners of Port Harvey, George and Gail Cambridge run the marina on their own. They sure put in a long day. George gets up at the crack of dawn each morning and starts the bread, buns and cinnamon buns. He has the free coffee ready at 0700 hours. The two of them are busy all day running their little store and gift shop downstairs, docking incoming boats, and doing the general work of scrubbing toilets, docks, and all the zillion jobs that entail the operation of a marina. They also have a small restaurant upstairs where they serve a lovely dinner. George mentioned to us that this has been their best year yet. We believe him by the sign of wear on the two of them. They were both pretty tired by the time all the diners had finished their dinner. They need a couple young people to do the gofer work for them.

After dinner, Brennan and Jennifer Day came on our boat for a visit. We met them at Lagoon Cove. He had worked on a project in Kazakhstan. They and Betty shared a few stories on how living and working in those foreign countries can be quite the experience.

They left around 2130 hours. We hit the sack as we wanted to get an early start today.

August 27, 2013, Port Harvey to Forward Harbour

I got up at 0530 hours and checked the weather. The winds were light. There was no fog so we were off at 0615 hours. That portion of Johnstone Strait was somewhat choppy but bearable. We got as far as the turn off into the channel that leads to Forward Harbour. It was 0930 hours. I had been at the helm for over 4 hours so we decided to spend the night in Forward Harbour.

At 1045 hours we pulled into Douglas Bay which is around the corner of the entrance into Forward Harbour. There are two other power boats here with us. But it is still early. It started to rain as soon as we anchored. It probably is a good decision to spend the night here. I did not want to be stuck in Johnstone Strait with wind and rain and no place to escape to. We have passed the time today having lunch, a nap, played some cards, did some reading while Betty is still pulling things out of the storage areas. Roast beef sandwiches are on the menu for tonight's dinner. I am a little choked with my sweetie pie. We played hand and foot first...she skunked me good, next we played golf...she beat me by one we played three games of sequence....she won them now I am pouting!!!! I did not dare suggest a crib game!!!

Betty has been busy cleaning out storage areas these past couple days. She vows that she will not bring so much stuff next year....I will believe that when the time comes!! We both realize that we always take on more clothes than what is needed and we can do without half of the can goods.

Depending on the weather report we will either head inside the islands, fight a couple rapids and go down the inside of Quadra Island to come up to Campbell River from the south or we will head for the north end of Quadra Island and pull into Granite Bay for tomorrow night for a slack water crossing of Seymour Narrows on Thursday....all depends on wind, weather, tides, etc.

While we were at Port Harvey we purchased 8 home made Kaiser buns. They sure tasted great. Betty made me a fried egg bunwich for breakfast when we were underway. Man that was good with the fresh bread. We had sloppy Joes on a Kaiser bun for lunch.

August 28, 2013, Forward Harbour to Discovery Harbour and Home

This morning we woke to a light rain and patches of fog. I knew we had a tight schedule to try and make Seymour Narrows at slack water but we were a half an hour late in departure. We had to run the Whirl Pool Rapids just outside Forward Harbour, I think we were getting up to 4 knots pushing us. There was a bit of turbulence after we got through but not too bad.

Now we had to high tail it. My GPS showed we would arrive at the narrows 15 minutes after slack water at cruising speed causing us to have the current against us. Not the greatest but I figured we would go for it if we were no later than a half hour. My tide tables showed me we should have the current in Johnston Strait with us right up to 12 noon but with all the inlets and corners into Johnston Strait this could be quite variable.

Heading from Forward Harbour to Johnston Strait (5 miles) I figured about 1 knot against us but as it turned out we had 1 knot with us. Saved some time here.

Traveling down the Strait we had some current against us but most of the time it was good. In the five hours to Seymour Narrows we managed to peel off 15 minutes and arrived there almost at the exact minute of slack water. (GREAT!)

As we were just through the narrows I noticed a tug with a huge log boom going North through the narrows. I could not figure why he would be moving those logs North. There were no sawmills or pulp mills in that direction. A bit of a puzzle, I would have to ask my friend ex logger Bill Mallet.

When we got home, I did ask Bill and he was a bit puzzled as well. The only thing he could think of was that the area he came out of was a big assembly area and if they got full they would have to shut the sorting operation down so instead they were probably moving those logs to a tie up area they have just North of Seymour Narrows in a bay to wait for a big tug to take them South to Vancouver.

A little further along we pass the old closed down pulp mill. In one of her large docks is moored the paddle wheel boat "Royal City Star" that used to be in New Westminster as a floating casino. Now stored there for a couple of years. I saw on the news a while ago that the old pulp mill has been purchased by a company that plans to build a LNG site there for shipping via freighter to the Far East. If that goes through it will be a boom to Campbell River and area.

We arrive at our Marina and tie up to the fuel barge to top up BeeJay's tank. It took 32 litres of diesel to get from Lagoon Cove to Campbell River. Not bad at all, eat your hearts out you power boaters!!!

Now its over to our slip at H27. Our friend Greg who lives on his boat in the summer sees us coming in and comes over to grab our lines as we dock. Our next step is to unpack BeeJay and haul all our stuff home. We will come back in a day or two when the rain stops and do a good clean up inside and out. Here is Betty getting things ready and some of the stuff to go by cart up to the car.

All in all we had just a great cruise all the way to Kitimat. There were no major problems. We did hit a rock but we were going slow so no harm was done, we hit a few pieces of wood in the water but no harm was done and we lost a fuel cap but managed to replace it in Shearwater. The weather for the month of July as we traveled North was just great, sunny and hot all the way to Kitimat. The weather home was cloudy and rainy all the way back with a few days of partial sun. Both Betty and I agree that for the most part this was a humbling and educational experience for both of us. Our visits to the many aboriginal villages along the way will be our memories for a long time. Our love and feelings for our beautiful province has expanded a hundred fold. We realize how lucky we are to live here on Vancouver Island where we can just jump on our boat and see it all over again. Thank you to our worldwide readers. We hope we did not bore you. We tried to describe our trip as if you were right beside us. We thank you for your kind notes of encouragement.